Days 80 – 87 May 5th to 12th 2017
Photos from A Seven Day Journey from Beginner to Almost Competence on a Narrowboat
Friday 5th May Wrenbury to Grindley Brook
We have watched the videos, read the Boat Manual, practiced the knots and looked up Narrow boat disasters. I continue to remind myself they let anyone take these boats out – yet I am nervous!
Our first day begins with trains not boats – from Chester to Crewe to Wrenbury. I had read (I thought) and told fellow travellers that Crewe was the largest train station in the world. Hmmmmm – not so – and I heard about this for a long time. Still not sure what world record I read but not that.
The train to Wrenbury was a cute tiny single carriage. The conductor let the driver know who was getting off at which stop. On the train we were overheard puzzling about which direction to walk when we got off at Wrenbury a fellow passenger leant forward and gave specific walking directions. It was about a 1km walk with our bags so a lunch at the local seemed a good idea at the end. The Cotton Arms describing itself as the oldest in Wrenbury, an “award winning local pub”.
Our 7 day canal boat trip organised through the very patient ABC Boat Hire was about to begin. We will float from Wrenbury to Llangollen and back. Llangollen sounding more like Glanglocklin when spoken.
First a safety briefing and video in the office before meeting our boat the “Black woodpecker”. Martin, from ABC Boat Hire, came on board with us and gave a thorough briefing. Firing up the engine he then came out on the first part of our journey with us. Till the lift up bridge.
And suddenly there we were, all by ourselves. We had thought our hand would be held through the first lock – not so. Martin exited at the windup bridge and we were on our own. With our book of instructions and a well cared for boat.
Cruising along we suddenly see a large gate ahead and realise – GULP – our first lock. We had discussed process, watched the videos, worked out safety strategies and it all went smoothly. The bumping about within the lock was a little unnerving at first. It was also not helpful that at our first lock the gate was sticking – a helpful more experienced person (1 week returning from his trip) gave us a hand.
Three locks later, and a minor, though crazy moment, when we lost the guide pole into a swirling wind swept river, it was time to moor for the night. Following our guide book we found a mooring at Grindley Brook just before the bridge – beyond which was a daunting (for the beginner) staircase of locks. That can wait till tomorrow, tonight dinner at the Horse and Jockey hotel just off the canal. Cheers to us all for getting to the end of the first day.
Saturday 6th May Grindley Brook to Ellesmere
Newby narrowboat skipper and his nervous mate spent a worrisome night and got up to review videos of how to transverse the locks, and how to set off from a mooring (when you have a boat front and back of you). Amazing that within a couple of days this would seem easy peasy!
Today we planned to motor from Grindley Brook through the locks to Ellsemere. Our first full day of boating. First the Grindley Brook lock “staircase” plus four single locks in quick succession. A lock keeper was on hand to help us through the staircase and luckily not being high season there were not too many boats coming and going. We did it.
The camaraderie on the canals despite it being frustrating for those who are experienced or who live on the canal – to put up with us – is wonderful. An older man (84years he told us) helped us through the staircase chatting at each level and describing the natural process of bumping your way through the locks.
And on we go, a gentle flow along bucolic scenes, ducks with ducklings racing the bow, birds along the canal edge. Cows, sheep and horses in fields. Rape fields adding colour (and prompting thinking about Canola/Rape seed after Brexit). When it all works it is gorgeous.
One funny moment happened as we neared a tight corner and bridge. A boat appeared stopped very close to the entrance. As we came closer a man pops his head up from the motor –
“Sorry man” he says as he takes a long hard draw on his ‘cigarette’ Continuing in a long slow drawl “In a bit of trouble man – rope around the propeller – not happy man”. As his boat wanders close to the bridge we squeeze around. When we next look around he is head down bum up in the engine legs flailing.
On we go heading to Ellesmere for the night as we had a dinner date.
As we got close to Ellesmere we again looked for mooring and as we travelled through the tunnel leading to the town we met up with our friends visiting for the weekend. Dinner was at the oldest pub in town the Red Lion pub. Built in the 16th Century. The age of buildings is hard to comprehend.
After a very pleasant night we took a vote on a late start tomorrow!
Sunday 7th May Ellesmere to Chirk
The men in the group went into town for supplies (and fry up) – a long time later they returned after breakfast on land. It was a lovely sun filled day to set off, travelling through the green and beautiful countryside that is England.
We decided to moor before the aqueducts and leave that challenge till the morning. We found a lovely spot on a tree lined area of the canal – after stopping we discovered we needed mooring pins as the rings were not provided. An interesting moment the next morning when we discovered one pin bent our of shape – was it boat or was is man-strength.
We soon discovered even this spot was a short walk to a local –The Bridge Inn had a garden bar looking across to the the aquaduct we would travel across in the morning, with the viaduct in front of it. An entertaining conversation at the bar about the popularity of Fosters lager!!
Monday 8th May Poncysylltte to Llangollen and back to Chirk.
Woke up to another beautiful morning, ready to tackle the 125 feet high Pontcysyllte aqueduct and narrowing canals to Llangollen, our turn around point.The aqueduct was a highlight UNESCO registered. Old – completed in 1805. It’s the oldest and longest navigable aqueduct in the UK, High – it is the highest in the world.
It was awe-inspiring and madness that someone would think to build this. Slightly terrifying but incredible to cross. Its byline “stream in the sky” is absolutely accurate.
While the scenery was incredible our Skipper with very real height fears and a narrow navigable space (4 inches spare) was concentrating absolutely on getting to the other side. On the other end some less than charitable UK boat travellers were gesticulating and commenting along the lines of Hurry Up. Not impressed by our Aussie humour in response to their grump we sailed on by.
Once in Langollen we had a walk around the picturesque town spread around the River Dee. As we wandered we collected dinner supplies – pork pies, scotch eggs, and pork sausage rolls! All the best of the local cuisine.
Dinner on board we headed back, retracing the canal back over the aqueducts and the two tunnels then looked for a mooring. We moored up at Chirk Bank as we moved beyond first the smell of wood and then the smell of chocolate – both coming from factories above the canal, which did not appeal as places to moor.
Tuesday May 9th Chirk to Ellesmere.
Woke up to our first foggy morning so a slow morning to match the weather.
As the sun broke through we set off travelling through beautiful countryside at a more relaxed pace. Criss crossing between Wales and England.
Feeling so much better now as we navigate locks more easily, moor at whim and I DROVE – managing with difficulty to steer around the corners.
Wednesday May 10th Ellesmere to Whitchurch.
Woke to a crystal clear morning. After collecting some provisions from the local deli we headed off and had lunch beside a rural paddock. Now we were mooring at whim rather than the major event if had been on day one.
We finished the day at Whitchurch and went into town for dinner. After a wander through the main street with beautiful Tudor buildings we stopped for a beer at the Cock and Greyhound. There a local whispered to us that the Joules was a better pub for food. Great advice.
As we arrived we were told we were lucky as it was a “jam session” night. We were then told by the publican that dinner had finished 15 minutes ago. Well beers and Shiraz had already been ordered. While talking with our waitress (who like so many had Oz connections – one child working in Australia and one in NZ), she said that she would ask the chef for us who was happy to make us dinner. A seafood pie for me and delicious it was. As we ate musicians with various instruments began to arrive for their monthly ‘jam’ session. A fantastic night of music, song and poetry, My favourite was a canal boat song “The Finest of them All” which seemed entirely appropriate.
As we left Chris hailed a taxi. What followed was a hilarious attempt that even the driver found amusing. We could not give an address nor find where we had left our boat. Eventually in the early hours of the morning we left the cab and stumbled around the quiet streets. After several loudly whispered disagreements and wrong turns we found our boat. Getting to the town – a 15 minute walk. Getting home from town – exactly one hour.
Thursday May 11th Whitchurch to Wrenbury.
A late start after our wonderful musical night. Another sunny day and we have 10 locks to clear before arriving at our destination.
We managed the 10 locks including the staircase with ballet like form. Each knew his job. And what team work to manage those windup bridges. One does have to make sure you are on the right side when the winding is done!
The only small hitch came when I momentarily forgot my job watching the Cill line because I was trying to video the boat in the lock. The video is not kept as it records us having a little difference of opinion as to whether or not I might have had my eye on the Cill marker! Tension rose a little further when water began spilling onto the boat from a leak in the wall of the lock. Very quickly – all is well and we motor on.
For our final day we had another beautiful spring day. A brightly coloured Kingfisher with a bright orange neck and shimmering turquoise body, along with a majestic Heron spent time following the boat. Both would land metres ahead of the boat and fly forward as we came closer. Mesmerisingly repeating this over and over again.
Friday May 12th Back to Base
Feeling like professionals we motor through the last windup bridge helping others along the way.
Sad to leave our home on water and such a great Woodpecker. What luxury we had – a double bedroom with ensuite at each end and a kitchen and dining area in the middle.
Finally retracing our steps back to Crewe – farewells and for us – back to Burbage and on to our next adventure.
