Day 29 – 30 May 10th – 11th
Waiting and water would be the words that come to mind when I think of our time in Victoria Falls.
We began the day on the water –
Firstly for our last 6.30 boat safari and sunrise on the water – today to the Chobe rapids where the yellow billed storks, the white fronted cormorants and reed cormorants were prolific and a challenge to photograph in the changing light on a boat pulled by the rapids.
On we go to the river and 4 country junction. The Zambezi River joins the Chobe and four countries meet- Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe.
Finally a quick trip to again see immigration at the Namibian border so we could exit and return to Botswana.
After returning to the houseboat at breakneck speed using channels through the reeds we had our final breakfast. Farewells to our wonderful guide Fabian, Skipper Martin and crew. Then to Kasane to enter back into Botswana.
Stork Feathers
The driver who ferried us to the Zimbabwe border gave Chris a parting gift from Dan the Pangolin Operations manager who we had met at the camp site. The driver said she didn’t understand it and thought it was “lame”. It was a small square of sandpaper! Dan is an English cricket fan – enough said. Chris is plotting revenge.
As we approached the border we said sad farewell to our talented and delightful photography guide Sara. She made learning photography fun and if we produced some quality photos it was in large part due to her.
As we crossed the border from Botswana to Zambia, Zambia to Zimbabwe the lines of lorries waiting in both directions at every stage was like a guard of honour as we whizzed by. Miles and more of lorries waiting days to cross – crossing the river by the one ferry taking 2 at a time, waiting at the border for processing. All the while whatever is in the trucks sits day after day in the African heat. Sara while explaining the centipede of trucks said humorously “That is why we can only buy soggy limp carrots in the supermarket”.
Water was visible though not instantly recognisable as we arrived in Victoria Falls. What looked like a line of white smoke over the bushes was in fact spray from the thundering falls hitting the floor and spraying up into the sky.
We arrived at the palatial Victoria Falls hotel. With beautiful gardens, a multitude of uniformed staff, floor length portraits of King George V and Queen Mary along with mounted animal heads. A monument to British colonialism. Our room was delightful and overlooked the immaculate gardens leading down to the view over towards the Falls.
While a lounge about was our desire – the activities continued and the Falls walk was arranged for the afternoon. Forewarned we loaded up raincoats and overpance. Along with his fun and knowledge our guide Absolum also provided long thick plastic coats for those without protection. It was funny to watch people refuse, saying they did not mind a bit of water, while the guide tried to describe the level of water that would be encountered.
As we moved through the view points 1 to 16 there was various degree of visibility – the lower the visibility to higher the amount of water showering down. The sheer power of the water flowing over the falls is difficult to describe. What is amazing is the spray that rises from the water falling a hundred meters to the river below. This produces a rain zone over the footpath used to view the falls. It was amazing to be able to walk along a dry footpath but be pelted by “rain” from the spray as you approached the various viewing points. Given that the spray made it hard to see parts of the falls we were pleased that we would have the chance to see them from the air the next day.
The first stop was the statue of Livingstone. The falls are tied in with the legend of “Dr Livingstone I presume”. He came here in 1904 as part of an expedition to explore Africa as a missionary. We were astounded to hear him credited for assisting in stopping the slave trade here. Both Chris and I came away wanting to read more about the man.
The first two views of the Falls were of the smallest the drop of the four, with less spray and more visibility. Stunning to hear and see the volume of white voluminous water pounding over the basalt. The further we moved along the path the more water encountered and the stronger the rainbows visible through the spray.
Day two in Victoria Falls began with a morning helicopter ride over the falls and surrounding national park. Hard to put into words the feeling of seeing that massive body of water fuming over basalt cliffs from the air. For the second time I was brought to tears by the absolute beauty. The previous was El Capitan in Yellowstone park.
We rose from the Heliport up and encircled the Falls several times – seeing it from each side, all angles. Small windows opened allowing photos without glass and a greater sense of the freedom of the helicopter. 25 minutes went far too quickly for my liking and all too soon our purple and gold flying machine was back on the ground.
Chris and I left the group in the township to visit the Pharmacy where my assumptions were rightly challenged as we spoke with a very knowledgeable and helpful pharmacist.
A wander through the town was dotted with endless offers from the young men waiting along the road to sell carvings, adventure rides, taxis, Zimbabwean over inflated notes, and to ask for things you have that you no longer want in your travel bag. We do this together and then later I do it alone – it is hard to stay friendly and respectful when the onslaught is so constant – but so understandable as I sit with lunch seeing fellow travellers in all their gear and gadgets wander past young people who have no work, and want more.
After two nights of excess in the Victoria Falls Hotel the rest of the group leave to continue journeys home or holiday. We have another day before our flight to Ethiopia so we move to a more economical hotel, a quarter the price yet entirely adequate – clean, comfy bed, great shower, and once fixed – faster internet access than we have had.
