Days 98 to 100 July 18th to 20th Vagar, Faroe Islands
Sitting above the cliffs of Gasadalur I was so pleased to have pushed on and challenged my self to be here in the Faroe Islands and to finally drive on the righthand side. To describe the cliffs seems to only bring to mind words used to excess – breathtaking, panoramic, plunging waterfall, verdant green landscape. It really is enough to make you forget daily trials and tribulations and sit and soak it up.
Back to the beginning. 18th July was the day we four “Amigos” were scheduled to leave Iceland – them back to Melbourne, us to the Faroe Islands accompanied by great excitement and anticipation about what was in store. During the night Chris received news that jettisoned him on a lengthy series of flights back to Australia. And me travelling to the Faroes alone. Travelling alone – no biggie. Driving on the other side, the right side of the road – sleep depriving.
My flight was not till evening and all others left at 6am so plenty of time to work up a storm in my head. Launched myself out for a final walk through Reykavik – first to calm myself with a visit to the Outdoor equipment store and later a final meal of Plokkfiskur at Icelandic Street Food
Finally the tiny Reykavik domestic airport and the hour and a half flight to the airport on Vagur, Faroe Islands. There it began THE CAR. Deep breaths, right thumb stuck out to remind me which side to stay on. Manual gears – had not taken that on board but OK. Off we went, luckily only about a 10 minute drive with a few loops for lost, and a few bumps on the right kerb.
The weather was straight out of Iceland – misty, raining, windy. The view from the cottage right on the harbour – gorgeous. This place is like living on the cover of the old perfect scene Chocolate box lids.
Slept and then some after the fraught night before. The weather was particularly foul – strong winds, heavy rain, visibility barely. Great excuse for a quiet catchup day. The outing of the day was to the supermarket for meals in the week ahead. Drive accomplished with minor drifts to the right.
Decided I needed to make a stand and get out. I made a list in my head – Get SIM and try Dual Sim Get ideas for what to see and instructions on getting to Gadardalur. Change money. The airport being closest I headed back there and the first two were quickly accomplished, the latter not – apparently Icelandic notes are not changed in the Faroe Islands!
Off I set determined to drive somewhere. The somewhere proved to be the wrong way and while I had been told there was a small tunnel I found myself in a 6km tunnel under the Fjord. Took a little drive around since I was already there. Pretty villages with barely a cars width between houses at times. Misty mountains and water everywhere.
Spotted a lovely picnic spot and sat near a boat harbour enjoying my picnic lunch. Recalling our checklist in Iceland – not windy, not raining, nice outlook, a tree. The latter never happened, the rain and wind were present more often than not, and the view sometimes Yes sometimes No. One memorable No was a French group who chose to pull in with campervans and park right in front of our table blocking all view. Today I had a lovely view, a tree a way behind, and there was rain and wind.
Driving back I turned into a small town dominated by a church on the waterfront – Sandovagur an award winning village perfect for a wander around. Following two young girls of maybe 7 or 8years having one of those best friend arguments you see all over the world. The town was a photographers delight. The lovely wedding cake like church (above) standing out from the village.
After all this I returned via the long underwater tunnel and decided that was enough for the day.
Planned a salmon soup for dinner and it was shaping up nicely. Bit of salt needed – I threw in salt I had bought from Iceland unused and the smell of Ammonia was overpowering. Unsure where the smell was coming from and whether it would eat out my insides I sniffed the salt pot and there it was. Googled the and discovered the name HjartarSalt which is apparently liked by Icelanders as a seasoning. Not by me! What to do. I let it cook for a time and the smell dissipated then to be sure I added grated cheese. Delicious. Lesson learned and salt discarded.
