Day 12 to 15 – 23rd April to 26 April
After a 5.45 start – standard practice for what was to come! Pam gave us a breakfast pack and waved us off. Met the Ashton Bus for Kruger at Oliver Tambo Airport. A crowded cramped ride followed with some customers more disgruntled than others. Chris sat next to a young Canadian who had just accepted a job in Brisbane. Great and lengthy conversation.
Closer to Kruger National Park the road took us through mountains with rust, yellow, orange and earth colours, stark cliff faces we later found to be part of the Gorge forming the Panorama route.
At Eastgate Airport in Kruger as the bus emptied out to us we transferred to another bus to take us to Kambaku Safari Lodge. We had hardly left the airport when we saw our first wildlife – our first sighting of the very common Impalas and further on a group of Giraffes crossing the road, Zebras mixing up stripes together. Great excitement and anticipation of what was to come.
With what was to be standard practice whenever we left the lodge – we were greeted out front by Katherine the lodge manager, and Tessa the front office manager. Also an introduction to two men who were to be our stars of the week -our guide Gideon and tracker Eric.
Daily routine was explained – up at 5.30am Coffee and Rusks. Out of safari for 3 plus hours. Back for hefty brunch under the trees by the pool. Rest time! High tea – sweet and savoury snack options. Afternoon safari with drinks at sunset. Back for dinner. Collapse into bed at 9pm ready to do it all again for 4 days.
We quickly discovered meals were incredible and dinner was laid out in a different spot around the grounds each night. Always spectacular.
Chris questioned two safaris a day. Overkill he thought. “Why would I want to go on seven safaris?” Quickly realised his mistake firstly as Tessa explained if you miss one you might miss an incredible sighting. Secondly when during our stay and two safaris a day he never missed a one!
We left for our first safari that afternoon. We realised the thrill of driving through the bush and not knowing what we would see made every safari different. We also quickly started to understand the skills of our tracking and guiding team – the extensive list included Impala, Warthogs, Elephants, Giraffes, Vultures, Buffalo herd and Rhinos-the list goes on and on. A highlight was finding a female lion eating a buffalo meal. Sunset drinks was entertaining – well Mel was the entertainment as an elephant trumpeting close behind.
During the week we arranged two optional extras. One was a visit to a bird hide for a couple of hours – we were dropped off with snacks and drinks! The hide is on a waterhole – a quiet peaceful place to spend time. Watched birds building nests, terrapins floating about the waterhole. A variety of waterbirds along the banks.
As our pickup arrived and we were exiting Chris’s foot went through the floor with blood and torn clothing -Chris was hanging with leg through the hide much to the horror our guide. I was half way down the ladder picnic basket in hand so stumbled down remaining stairs quickly put the basket in the truck and went back to see what could be done. Decided it needed to wait till we were back where Chris was patched up and pants were mended.
An uncommon treat during a morning drive was coming across four Hyena cubs being babysat by two adults near their den.
Our second ‘extra’ activity was a safari walk in the bush with our guide Gideon. Having to walk single file while our guide in front is carrying a large-bore rifle adding to the drama of being amongst animals in their natural habitat. Alas no animals but plenty of interesting plants and skeletons to tell a story. A buffalo skull showed a break through a vertebra and through the spinal column – a lion attack. A plant branch broken off, peeled and flayed at the end was a bush toothbrush.
Our way too exciting wildlife experience began every morning (5.30am) and afternoon trips (3pm) – 7 of us pile into a big open safari truck with raised seating. Chris and I in the back seat. The remainder of the group were Canadians so we nicknamed our truck the Commonwealth. A great crew and a lot of fun.
On one morning drive two male Kudo were spotted fighting with a lone female nearby. Fascinating to watch them locking their long twisted horns. Easy to see they could be locked together to the death.
Our dedicated and skilled driver-guide and tracker set out to find wildlife along the various winding tracks within the park. Tracker Eric sitting on a seat built out the front, guide Gideon driving. Both watching for tracks and signs. Each day was very different – elephants, giraffes, warthogs, Kudo, zebras, eagles, lilac breasted rollers and on and on.
On one trip we came across a single male white Rhino. Following at a distance we could watch as the Rhino – who was apparently tracking another male – looked to be spoiling for a duel. As he walked a large spray of white mist sprayed across the ground marking his territory.
We slowly moved along parallel with his path when suddenly he turned – eyeballed us and charged. Heading straight for the back right corner of the vehicle I dropped my phone and leapt across the seat towards Chris. Gideon slammed the vehicle in gear and took off but the Rhino – faster on his feet that one would imagine – got a charge in on the corner. I had two fears – that we would be tipped over and more critically that he might have to be shot because of us.
As it happened Gideon came to a thorny tree blocking the path. As he backed up to turn the Rhino appeared behind us. Gideon roared and rocked the truck back and forwards – spewing up dirt, Eric bashed on the truck and whistled loudly all trying to stop the Rhino in his tracks.
Before escaping there was another charge into the back of the vehicle and then it was Rhino and truck side by side racing until he got over himself and we were back out of his range.
What a story to tell.
Kambaku Safari Lodge itself was a small lodge for 16 guests in the Timbavati Reserve – a modern take on traditional African accommodation including thatched rooves in the with wildlife wandering through. Our room was a vision – entering from a small private verandah the interior was dominated by a large 4 poster bed with mosquito net draped.
The bathroom was a large room, earthy colours with slate like floors and shower, a claw foot bath on one side. Artwork throughout the lodge was interesting – my favourite was a wood and silver sculpture in our bathroom – a tree like sculpture – a long trunk like wood base merging into the silver body of a woman.
