Tetoven Bulgaria Day 197 25th October 2018
Slighty disbelieving I mentioned to Chris there was snow covering the grass outside our window. Yup – real live beautiful snow. As we headed over to breakfast the whole area was snow covered. Lubo had seen it falling overnight – we had unfortunately not thought to look out on our multiple night trips!
After breakfast it was on the road with Lubo heading to Glozhene and Teteven. A slower drive than anticipated owing to snow covered roads. A beautiful trip as we travelled through the snow covered mountains pierced with deep, bright autumn colours and topped with brilliant blue sunny skies.
As we reached the village of Glozhene we caught glimpses of a monastery high on a mountain overlooking the village. Glozhene monastery our destination.
Legend tells of a monastery being built in the village of Glozhene when a shepherd came down with an icon he had found on the mountain. The site of the monastery was relocated to the spot where the icon was found. The icon remains in the chapel to this day.
An extraordinary feat to cart and carry all the building materials up the mountainside.
Icy winds whipped around us as we walked up to the monastery – life must have been stark in the early days. Well even now up at the monastery with few creature comforts and barely a buffer for the weathers.
For travelers on this cold icy, windy day it was hard to imagine sitting out in summer. The café with tables out over the hillside complete with menu and beer signs were proof the weather could be hospitable. Lubo confirmed this with stories of bringing horse tours to the monastery.
The Monastery was beautiful – whitewashed walls with dark stained boards and roofed with slate slabs. The small chapel with frescoes wall and ceiling housed the famous icon still revered by locals today.
Stories of revolution and partisans at the Monastery with a memorial to Vasil Levski which includes his final words “ If I win – I win for all our people, If I lose – I lose only myself. “ Some commitment for Bulgaria at such a young age – he was 36years when hanged by the Ottomans. A cellar-like dark hole under one of the rooms was used to hide arms and at times people – including Levski.
After lunch in Tetoven we opted for a walk to the Skoka waterfall followed by a hot soak in the pool Rather than a long mountain top walk – given the weather and our lack of enthusiasm for more “up”. Sometimes lazy legs are a bonus – what a perfect decision.
The walk was one of the many eco walks developed around Bulgaria. A well laid out path along the river, through extensive woods. Having seen it dressed for all seasons, Lubo agreed it was particularly special in autumn. Being the end of summer there was only a small stream of water from the waterfall and the river was a gentle brook.
Leaves were beginning to fall so path and water had a layer of earthy coloured autumn leaves, contrasted with the bright green moss over rocks and running water.
We spent time just enjoying the quiet and beauty of the walk and the gentle falls at the end. Reluctant for the walk to end such was its enchantment.
Again back for soak in hot pool at hotel – a race against time as the pool closed at an unbelievable 6pm! And if one considered breaking the curfew the “pool man” entered at a minute past 6 with his tubs of chemicals,
