Day 240 – 241 October 1st and 2nd 2017
Tabriz to Kerman
Today our first day alone. Excitement tempered with a little reservation largely from that Iran reputation that lingered from years of news at home.
Firstly a big lie in and relax pinching ourselves still that we are here in Iran. We were also a little nervous at going out during the morning of the final Ashura commemorations – unsure of what was OK and what was not.
Ashura: commemorating the assassination of Imam Hossein (the third Imam after Mohammed) and seventy-two martyrs in . An important commemoration for Shia Muslims, marking a key difference between their branch of Islam and that of the Sunnis, who do not recognise him.
Eventually we decided it was time to test our new independence. The streets were quiet and most shops were closed as we strolled down the main street to the bazaar – also closed. The streets were lined with stalls and hung with black banners with pictures, calligraphy, symbols and the Supreme Leader.
On our return walk people were coming back on the streets. This meant that in typical Iranian style – people greeting “Salaam” and asking “Where are you from?”
It also meant many cups of tea.
Near the bazaar at the entrance to an unlit alley a man invited us upstairs for tea. Reluctantly we hung outside until we were shepherded upstairs to a room full of men in conversation, smoking shishas and drinking tea. Assurance was given that despite there being no women present it was OK. We welcomed, sat at a shared table and given endless tulip glasses of tea and little buns. No payment accepted.
As we left the little café and headed back to the hotel the city was again coming to life – shops were opening and people were crowding the pavements again. We were offered similar hospitality again and again. One very friendly and insistent host invited us in and give us tea and a delicious rice pudding.
Home to pack and prepare for our first independent adventure to Kerman.
Next morning, nervously we caught a cab to the airport for our flight to Tehran and connection to Kerman. Missing our trusty guide Leila to shepherd us through we were on our own. Like the professional Nomads we have become, we managed very well!
Looking down on Tehran from take-off showed how little of the city we had actually seen – from the air the mountain range appeared to frame a huge mass of clay coloured lego blocks spreading across the landscape.
Kerman
At Kerman we were met and ferried to the Akhavan hotel run by two brothers who seem to unofficially run tourism in Kerman and its surrounds. If you have a question about Kerman and surrounds ask the brothers. By the time we received our room key we had also had a taxi booked, and a tour of the major sites organised for the next day.
A friendly busy hotel with simple rooms and set menu dinner. Tonight’s dinner was accompanied by a new no-beer, this one had a label bearing strong resemblance to Heineken beer!
