Tashkent to Khujand Days 27 to 28 May 26 – 27th 2019
A lazy Sunday in Tashkent. This Silk Road traverse sets a cracking pace even without camels. Today was to be Sleep-in. Laze about. Catch up. Wander about. And we did all of it beginning – with the sleep-in and moving through the list.
Our wander about lead us winding through the streets past Soviet buildings, Soviet buildings modernized and small houses to the parks and on to ‘Broadway’ and surrounds.
We bumped into to the Book market set up through a park, and an Art market that combined with flea market goods. In all spots people were ambling and often stopped for a chat.
A perfect slow day ending with local beer and home cooked “everything-in-the-pot”.
27th May
A morning travelling from Uzbekistan to Tajikistan. It was to be an easy morning travelling from Tashkent to Khujand via the Oibek border.
The day began in a flurry of packing up, and checking all nooks and crannies in our huge and wonderful apartment. This combined with a time oops on my part lead to a no-breakfast departure – never a good idea!
After a pleasant drive through the Fergana valley we arrived at the border. Leaving Uzbekistan was a friendly affair through the Uzbek border followed by a long walk across no-mans land to Tajik border control.
Here we quickly discovered we had not got our online visa. Funny thing – In the car not 30 minutes earlier I said that having a travel company behind you did take the stress out of things!
Without speaking Tajik and with no internet it was impossible for us to sort it. The border staff tried to help and when they could not the made us comfortable in the border station. There seemed no option but to turn back. ‘Phone a friend’ time – we rang the local number for our Tajik guide and within minutes, like a genie out of a bottle, he was standing beside us in border control. In another strange moment Chris was on the phone to the person he thought was our guide at the moment he arrived beside us. Who knows? From then on – action and waiting. Short story – an E-visa was obtained from afar, double the price for urgency, and we were on our way.
On to Khujand city – quickly to become a favourite of mine. A city filled with trees –the tree lined streets making for a cooler more attractive space.
On our way from the border to Khujand our Genie, Afredun, introduced us to his beloved Tajikistan. Close your eyes for the next few paragraphs if history is not your thing!
Tajikistan has a population of about 9 million people.
Incredibly for such a tiny country it borders 5 countries including 1000km with Afghanistan. Also China, Uzbekistan, Kazakstan and Kyrgyzstan. The borders were redrawn by Stalin early in the 20th century. The rationale would be fascinating to know. What is known is that Samarkand and Bhukara were included as part of Uzbekistan instead of here.
93% of the country is mountainous. The highest peak Sonoma (Communism peak during Soviet times) is 7995metres. Approximately 250,000 people continue to live in the mountains – fascinating communities with their own dialect and language base.
The Tajik language is itself a dialect of Persian and therefore different from other Central Asian countries.
Khujand is the capital of the Sugd region – Northern Tajikistan. Khujand recently celebrated its 2500 years anniversary. A trade centre and transport hub from silk road times.
As with many cities in the region it had many names as various conquerors came through. Once named Alexandria Eschate (Alexandria the Furthest) – said to be the furtherest city Alexander the Great reached in Central Asia. Later to be called Hubjand meaning ‘Nice community’ which has now become Khujand. During Soviet times the city was renamed Leniniblad – after independence it returned to its historical name of Khujand.
Once in Khujand we began with a magnificent lunch at Zaytoun Restaurant which included lamb marinated, delicately spiced and cooked to such perfection it remains memorable though indescribable. Along with the Central Asian style bread and salad. Mmmmmmmm delicious.
Afternoon gave us a brief introduction to the sights of Khujand beginning with the Independence Tower where as well as a view of the city a small museum introduced the history and geography of Tajikistan.
Visiting the two larger than life statues of Sonomi and Lenin was a reminder of how empires and people rise and fall. Both statues had been central in the city and moved to the outskirts. Sononi now having a central place in the city park while Lenin was moved to a smaller park after independence.
After settling in to the friendly Khudjand Deluxe we set off on our own. Through the park past the sun setting over the Somoni statue and on to the Cable Car. Bought our tickets and the operator gestured us to wait – several cars passed until we were guided inside. The VIP car complete with 2 armchair like seats for a wonderful slow ride over the city, crossing the river and ending in the centre of a fountain lit park on the other side.
Dinner was late after we discovered – a) we were lost b) we had no city map c) we did not have our genie-guide’s number and d) we did not have the hotel address. A day for beginners mistakes!
Eventually one of the many young people who stopped for a chat gave us directions. Late night dinner at Shish Kebab Master, close to our hotel and proved to be the best Shaslik ever tasted – moist, perfectly cooked, smoky to perfection.
