Days 161 to 162 July 25th and 26th
Helsinki to Tallinn Leaving Helsinki while physically easy, with the ferry terminal a few hundred metres from our door was more difficult emotionally – I loved Finland and Helsinki was a beautiful gentle city.
It took only a short ferry ride – alongside Finns travelling to Estonia on shopping sprees and to purchase cheap alcohol. Entertained by someone in a bear suit and an enthusiastic young woman who were entertaining the children on the ferry, while not understanding the words the actions were similar to children’s entertainers anywhere – enthusiastic and inclusive.
After hearing so much about Estonia and Tallinn from our Estonian friends (and former house-sitters) it was a strange mix of excitement and a feeling we already knew Tallinn.
It was arranged that the Mum (Mum 1) of one friend would meet us and take us to the flat of the other Mum (Mum 2) where we would stay. That sounds a little clandestine and complex – it was not. Well not until we oozed off the ferry with the crowds and I realised meeting up was not going to be as easy as I had imagined. This was compounded by my travelling companion’s commentary as we slowly exited on my organisational ability.
As we poured onto the escalator I noticed a woman sitting quietly, waiting and I wondered. Downstairs seeing no-one who seemed to be waiting on anyone I ducked back upstairs leaving my still humphing travel companion on escalator watch downstairs.
Before long we were in an Uber and on our way to the suburb we would be staying in. Described as “between Hipster and Soviet”. Mum 1 guided us to the flat with instructions on how to find it, get buses, operate hot water etc. Mum 2 was away. Time for a rest and unpack before solo travel into Tallin to meet Mum 1 for dinner.
A beautiful clear sunny evening in Tallin and the Old Town looked photo perfect with shadows and light in all the right places. We bumped into the lovely Mum 1 on the way to the restaurant and had a wander – both before and again after dinner.
Dinner was at a traditional Estonian restaurant Olde Hansa where staff appeared to be impeccably selected for bubble, chirpy patter and the ability to quickly help you make menu choices. Beginning with locally brewed beer according to old recipes and served in large pottery tankards. The honey beer slid down very nicely and Chris enjoyed his cinnamon flavoured beer.
The evening was mild enabling us to sit outside. The interior deeply wooded and warmly lit would be enticing on a cold winters night all wood, padded, and cosy.
Our meals were again traditional recipes with meats served on pottery platters combined with lovely dinner conversation it was a wonderful night. Topped off by the specialty Rose Pudding a long time favourite of our Estonian friend. Despite being well fed we polished off every last mouthful
The next morning we set off to find breakfast – walking to Telliviski the “Hipster” part of the Hipster Soviet sandwich we were staying in, Large factory buildings with murals painted along them. Interesting shops, studios and work spaces. We found our way to F-Hoone a highly rated café. Unfortunately they were a bit stretched and things were not going so well so orders around us were muddled and the wait was extensive. Around us was an old rail line with a trail and container cafes. An inviting shopping complex in an old factory and some great old buildings.
We walked on from here and came to the Balti Jaam! Now I know it is where the trains leave for Baltic regions – don’t tell an Estonian but we thought Balti Jaam was an Indian restaurant!. Opposite was a market where we heard singing – on investigation a choir was performing in amongst brightly coloured vegetable stalls. Both of us commenting this is the joy of travel – discovering moments.
On we went into the Old Town – surrounded by large portions of the original fortress wall it is an impressive sight. The next few hours we spent wandering in and out, up and down cobblestone lanes. Stopping for coffee and lunch as we felt the need.
Finally home and cooking – Mum 2 was coming home and we were cooking dinner. The problem was we had no idea of where a supermarket might be! Google had not been altogether helpful so our strategy was to get off the bus the minute we saw anything resembling a supermarket. Joy – we found one – disappointment – it was not the freshest, most well stocked supplier. Home we went to rethink – discovering two huge supermarkets just beyond the multiple blocks of apartments.
Again a lovely night of conversation and additions from both Mums to our map of where to go and what to visit. This lead to discussion and realisation the next morning that as always we did not have enough time to do all we wanted to.
This lead to the decision we would set off on our road trip of Estonia and come back to Tallin at the end – in the time we had left at the end.
