Day 116 – 117 August 4th – 5th 2018
There are days travelling that are wonderful, there are days that are great and then there is today!!
On yet another visit to a Tourist Information – this time in Torshavn – where I could see no need. “We have 3 days left what’s the point?”
In passing the young woman mentioned a spontaneous tour that had just been listed – an old wooden sail boat sailing out to a little visited and tiny island – Stora Dimun. The climb is too hard she said.
Home we went – read up on the trip to Stora Dimun and the sail boat Norðlýsið. The explanation was explicit – hard climb up a cliff and you need two hands. If you have a fear of heights don’t go. We booked! Then read up about it, followed by a YouTube video and got cold feet.
After a reassuring phone call, we went down and met with our skipper Birgir Enni to allay the climbing cliffs thing or cancel. A sailor of many years he assured us this was the “Rolls Royce” of tours in the Faroes; not often possible owing to tides and weather. His personal favourite spot that he had first visited as a young boy in 1959 and loved it ever since. Further he said we could do the climb and assured Chris “You will come back and feel like a hero” – true story. Who could refuse!
A 7am start to sail with the tides. The Norðlýsið is a stand out in the harbour, moored alongside cafes and surrounded by other boats. A beautiful old Oak sailing boat with canvas sails – RED sails.
We set off with the skipper giving us a safety briefing when suddenly a flurry of voices, shouts and movement on board. Looking forward a barge was reversing toward us at some speed – Birgir leapt from the safety briefing to the helm and with incredible skill the time bought us around so that the bowhead just lightly connected with the barge boat – who quickly moved forward and out, apparently not seeing us sooner.
As we left the harbour the sails were hoisted, a few sailors were needed to hoist the large heavy canvas mainsail followed by the genoa. Oh, how beautiful unfurled and wind filled. Sailing out was choppy – currents and winds shifting every which way, waves keeping us on deck wet enough. Sailing out from Torshavn down to Stora Dimun, past islands on both sides.
Stora Dimun looked magnificent as we approached, green piling down the cliff side. As we novices searched for the way up we were astonished to see a fence built straight down the cliff almost to the waterline.
Finally we moored and looked up. It was out of our comfort zone – climbing a ridiculous cliff with no OH&S safety code to be seen – let’s do it.
Moored out from the shoreline we transferred to a small motorboat with a bumpy drop ashore on the rocks, slippery from the rain and seaweed cover.
And then the climb. The start of the climb from the water was my first struggle requiring a significant stretch up from a small ladder using a rope up the rock. I hauled myself up with a helpful push from a fellow climber – legs jelly, heart beating double time and it was just beginning. Traversing the small shifting rocks and large boulders was settling – back in my comfort zone momentarily. Then the “trail” up the cliff.
The trail ran up the middle of the grass area filled with old Puffin nests forming foot holes and fall holes. It then followed a narrow ledge with a wire rope zig zagging to the top. A combination of steps, ledges, and hoisting yourself up rocks. I have no idea why we would do this to ourselves and yes it was at times terrifying for us as newbies. The exhilaration at the top was muted only by the thought we had to go down again.
First though – coffee and waffles prepared by the family living atop this tiny island. We quickly discovered one host had visited Australia and his wife had spent time in New Zealand. Noting the smallness of our world.
We had three hours to wander and contemplate life on that small island. Imagining living out our lives with only our own family around us. For me thinking about childbirth, health crises, isolation. Yet there was another side – yearning for such a full life connected to the land and meeting your own needs.
The buildings were clustered together -family houses and school house at the base of the hills – a teacher rotates here with other islands during the school year. On the hills were remnants of pulley systems once used to bring supplies to and from the island. This type of system is also used on other islands to raise and lower sheep from grazing spots!
After waffles, jam and cream we wandered the island. Some climbed up to the highest points we chose the lighthouse, Puffin and other bird watching. Looking down steep cliffs to the sea below and out to other islands of the Faroes.
After a few hours atop the island we headed back – the trip down the cliff was often worse than the up. The easiest strategy was to come down the grassy bits on your bum – ensuring you did not slide off the edge.
I had been dreading the last piece between rock face and ladder with nothing but a rope to get you down. We arrived there to find the crew had been very busy and drilled rungs into the rock face. So much easier.
Finally, back on the boat. My attempt was effective but not elegant. From the small motor to the sailing boat with no ladder and a rollicking sea. As my turn came I waited till the boat rose up on a wave and launched myself over the railing of the sail boat dangling over the sea momentarily until throwing myself onto the boat!
As we set sail the skipper cooked up a feast in the tiny galley. Huge pots sat on the stove as he served the crew (and the rest of us) a delicious feast of traditional Faroese food – fish soup, shrimps, fermented fish, dried haddock and boiled potatoes. We were also lucky enough to share dried lamb and bread – delicious. It seemed to strengthen the lamb flavour while the meat remained tender and moist.
Along with “tourists” there were a number of crew who were assisting for the day and that was an added treat. Faroese sailors who shared their food and their knowledge. One ship’s captain we spent much of our time with had worked around the world including Australia.
It became a cold trip back as the rain and wind came up. Once back on land cold, tired and exhilarated it was time for a tasty beer paddle at a Microbrewery – Mikkeller – the Flat White was a favourite. Followed by Lamb curry at Sirkus recommended as a favourite by the young man we met yesterday.
Waking up next morning – our last day in Torshavn we were both aching head to toe from the exertion yesterday but so excited with our achievements. Our wonderful host had said we could stay for the day till the ferry departure and this we gratefully did. I loved this little house especially the cute little stove:
A final beer at Mikkeller on the way to the ferry and it was farewell to Torshavn and to the maginificent Faroe Islands as we sailed for Denmark.
