Southbound on the Norwegian Coast on MS Kong Harald
7th to 12th February 2020
Day 8
A day spent mainly onboard. This meant eat, eat, eat, when all meals provided. Breakfast buffet, Buffet Lunch and 3-course dinner every day. And what meals they were.! How does one resist when fresh Norwegian food is laid out before you?
We did this day also manage to attend the lecture on Norwegian Polar History (part two). An entertaining lecture, with photos and stories animatedly presented by Torstein from the Expedition team. Focussing on Roald Amunsden and Adolf Hendrik Lindstrom these lectures again reminded us of how British-centric our education and information was being focussed more on the Scott expedition and British discoveries.
A short walk in Hammerfest and we found a statue of Adolf Lindstrom harbourside. Here is a benefit of the lectures – we knew who Lindstrom was and why he was holding a large spoon!
After a slip sliding bus ride and an icy slip-sliding walk up to the cathedral – the Midnight concert in the Arctic Cathedral in Tromso was a rare musical treat.
A trio that included a Baritone, Flautist and Pianist performing Sami and Norwegian pieces within the beautiful acoustics of the cathedral. Beginning with a goose-bump producing organ and vocal from the organ gallery.
Day 9
Sailing towards Stokmarknes we passed – without disturbing their ranks – a large flock of Eider ducks bobbing about on the sea. Seemingly unconcerned at the large bulk bearing down on them – on they bobbed. Later we read that in some villages the ducks are treated lovingly and the feathers used to produce down garments etc are only those left behind.
A quick visit into Stokmarknes where the Hurtigruten museum on the wharf was recommended as a highlight. We chose to go for a walk instead but the curved glass protective building being built to surround the MS Finnmarken was an impressive sight.
Once on the water again a rare treat was upon us. Trollfjorden and Raftsundet. The latter a narrow strait which we navigated at the magical Blue Hour. A spellbinding passage. The water was oily calm reflecting the mountains on either side, the distant sunset lit our way until all colour sank and only the blue remained.
We sailed in calm waters towards Trollfjorden a narrow fjord passable only by smaller boats. Turning on a sixpence the ship swirled around to enable us to look up into the narrow fjord with sharp dark mountains rising all around us. Behind us, a full moon completed the idyllic moment.
Svolvaer on the return voyage. This time we chose to walk up behind town on a small hill where we could see the town spread before us and the mountains silhouetted around the edge. Walking back to the boat around the harbour the night lights lit the Clipfish drying racks, brilliant lights reflected from the MS Kong Harald and creamy lights from the houses around the harbour.
Day 10
The highlight today was sailing along the Seven Sisters mountain range. A strong blustery wind made it hard to be on deck but the sight was worth the battering. A long jagged range that looked like pieces had been cut out giving sharp angles.
Another short anchorage in Bronnoysund and again we head off on a short map-less walk. Heading out of the town and clambering up an icy path over hill Chris commented that random walks with me were ones where you took your life in your hands! We made it back down to flat paved road without injury and wandered along the harbour looking over the closest of many many islands. Watching the changing colours as the blue hour fell.
