Day 233, 24 September 2017
One year ago a friend said to me “Wow Bhutan for your birthday how will you top that next year?” Iran – that’s how!
Here I am in Sobatan, Iran and it’s my birthday!
The day begins in waking in our ‘dorm’ a large room the floor covered with brightly patterned Iranian carpets, our mattresses lined up around the walls. Surrounded by our great tour group of women. Waking to light breaking through the valley mist covered below us. Surrounded by tiny houses with their bright red rooves perched along the mountains above the mist Another fascinating day in this incredible country.
First to breakfast – another feast on the floor as we sit on the colourful Iranian carpet, around the tear-off plastic cloth that has replaced the traditional cloth. The tablecloth was laid out with thick warm flat bread, tulip glasses of Iranian tea, honeycomb honey, homemade jam, creamy cheese with fresh tomatoes, and cucumbers.
Breakfast over, packing done – time for the ride down the mountain. I chose the van I thought had the older, therefore more cautious driver. Wrong! ‘Hair-raising Harry’ Chris named him as we raced down the mountain around winding bends, sharp turns and steep cliffsides. Along the winding mountain road a race ensued – leading then chasing younger drivers in our group. I was left breathless, eyes closed, convinced the end was nigh and questioning my decision-making processes. We made it. There was the smiling Magid – relief all round.
Back on our little bus – first stop Ardabil where the roads were so congested the bus could not move. Quicker to walk. The reason for the congestion was quickly revealed as we were swallowed up by the Ashura commemoration parade. Men in black, with colourful banners, coloured smoke, re-enactment scenes and loud drumming.
Passing along the parade to the Sheikh Safi -ah-din Mausoleum. Another of Iran’s wonderful UNESCO listed sites and a favourite of ours overall.
The entrance through lovely symmetrical treed gardens opened into a courtyard with brilliant blue tiles walls and domed entrances. The blue tiles of many patterns and scripts. Pale brick, curved and domed structures.
Sheikh Safi-ah-din was of Kurdish origins. Sunni inheriting a Sufi order. It was from him the Safavid dynasty took its name and later developed.
One of the most breathtaking spaces was an area designed to display a gift from ancient China in memory of the Sufi leader. Given many pieces of china a space had been created for each one in the walls and domed ceilings. While none of the china remained on display the walls themselves with their colourful gold edged paint and shell like curved shelves covering the walls and domed ceiling in the huge hall was spellbinding.
This visit accompanied a personal link and story from Leila our wonderful guide. Leila as a young girl would play in the entrance garden and owing to her command on English guides would ask her to translate for visitors. In the process of translating she not only learned the history of the Mausoleum but began her guiding career.
Sareyn – our hotel was a little out of town however the room was huge including a kitchen – unfortunately without any utensils, cutlery or crockery so no cups of tea despite initial excitement. Not much sleep tonight as someone above us was sliding furniture across the floor most of the night!
