Day 94 July 14th 2018 Snaellfellness Peninsula
Snaellfellness Peninsula seemed appealing – not sure why, and not sure how to pronounce it properly. Still it was here we headed after Burdadalur. With a shorter drive than yesterday and glimmers of sunshine as we travelled. The weather as we drove deteriorated and was not encouraging us to get out into it – even with the enticement of a huge glacier hidden in the clouds.
Having now agreed Tourist Information Offices are a good idea we visit many! The Tourist Info in Olafsvik was a gem – my vote for the best. Well apart from the wonderful young man in Hofn who was friendlier than most and gave us great advice – including best Puffin spot. The centre in Olafsvik had tables and chairs for sitting and perusing maps, a coffee machine, great bathroom facilities and a helpful young man at a very cool minimalist counter. Left armed with information – but without our usual stack of brochures!
As we headed out up the Peninsula just out of Olafsvik we passed by the impressive Kirkjufell mountain – the site of a number of movies and apparently one of the most photographed sites in Iceland. Yes we also stopped for photos – the steep curved sides and emerald green grass gave it photographic appeal even when shrouded in cloud.
On we went around the peninsula with first stop being the Saxholl Crater a short climb up an impressive metal stair case. Cloud was descending, sun was nowhere to be seen and Snæfellsjökull glacier was covered in a curtain of thick cloud. Still the crater and surrounding lava fields covered in bright green moss was compelling. The dark outline of the rugged mountain with its top blown off became a curving crater from the vantage point at the top.
At the Malarif Visitor Centre we were shown where the glacier would appear if there was no cloud – there was thick low cloud. Contented ourselves with the display of local flora, fauna, land formations and glacier information presented at the centre.
A constant source of fun on our trip has been finding picnic tables and chairs. Often spotted when we don’t want them and rarely when we do. And never with the tree displayed in the international sign Today we found a table out near the lighthouse with huge lava formations on the shore nearby – and unusually it was not raining. One memorable lunch was had on a cliff top table as large drops of rain peppered our hot soup.
Visible from many vantage points around the peninsula the Londrangar lava formations in the sun was a beautiful walk; the moss around the forms was vivid green against the black lava and black pebbles. The forms silhouetted the horizon where ever you walked.
As we walked the path through mossy fields and along the cliffs we watched two young women taking photos of each other at the cliff edge while just below them a little Puffin quietly stood. As they moved past us Chris said “Did you see the Puffin below you?” Shrieks and laughter followed by contrition Taking photos while the bird they had been waiting throughout there trip was just below them.
Moving on to Laugabrekka. The farm where Guðríður Þorbjarnardóttir was born – my new heroe. We made a quick stop at the replica of the statue we had seen at Glaumbaer stood overlooking the moss. What a woman!
Continuing our drive around the Snaeffellsness Peninsula the cloud lifted a little enabling a small peak at the large glacier above us. The summer road was partially open so we ventured up towards the glacier. Gerd and Liz were eager to see Songhellir Cave. As we reached the parking area there were a number of cars parked and people scattered across the moss and lava forms – relaxing, sunbaking, walking. The view and walk towards the sea looked more exciting that the cave so we followed the view.
As we walked across to take in the expansive view we met a walker coming back up. He eagerly showed us formations he had discovered hidden a little further over. A beautiful walk with a bit of everything – sea in the background, mountain beside us, rock formations, caves, moss, lichen and lava. Beautiful and peaceful as we became the only walkers.
The cloud continued to lift until we gained a lovely view of the mountain and glacier sparkling in the sun. So much so that we took a drive further up the road where views were perfect. So clear you could see the footsteps of hikers in the snow. We drove until the road was blocked by a Do Not Enter (in Icelandic) and ahead the road was still frozen and snow covered,
As we returned to the road towards our home for the night the realisation came upon the men – the Vin Budin was closing and too far to get to. Settling instead for hot dogs at Arnastapi. These were declared by all to be the best yet. The server suggested beer could be bought at a bar nearby – in they went and out they came empty-handed $9AUD a small bottle.
I had great anticipation for our accommodation for the night – the only accommodation IN the National Park – photos online looked lovely and it was expensive. A reformed US army barracks. Unfortunately the reality was a tired, student accommodation-like hostel, overly priced. Added to the disappointment was one toilet-bathroom for 8 people – and the door locked itself in the night so NO toilet!!!
A lovely midnight sunset was some consolation.
