Day 75 June 25th, 2018
A full and huge day of sightseeing today aided by the lack of sun setting and extended hours of light to travel by.
Sunshine – waking to such a rare, clear, sunny, morning we took time having breakfast and packing up. As we did so fellow travellers at the camp in Kirkjubaejarklaustur gave us news of a strong wind warning in the direction we were heading. The online Safe Iceland travel map was filled with red warning signs and they were unsure whether to continue. We headed off and found conditions pleasant for the morning and deteriorating in the afternoon.
Gerd had planned on driving up to Laki Craters reaching the entrance road showed stark warnings about the road – forbidding rental cars to travel any further. The alternative road lead on to yet another secret – this time a ‘secret’ canyon – Fjarðarárgljúfur. It may not have been entirely secret but it was beautiful – a 2 kilometre long canyon with water entering from falls at one end and running through the deep canyon.
The rock formations contrasting with the vivid green vegetation around it made Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon a beautiful hike.
While windy at the Canyon the weather held until we left and deteriorated as we drove towards Skafatell and our first glimpses of fingers of the huge glacier, shrouded in cloud and mist but no less exciting.
As we ventured into the Skaftafell National Park and found the Information office rain seemed imminent and walking seemed a less than an attractive proposition. After getting information – the men in the team opted for a marked geology walk and the women a hike to Svartifoss – a waterfall famous for its surrounding black basalt columns.
Liz and I walked up to the Svartifoss (falls) a 2km odd walk up with great views over the glacier and ocean. The falls themselves were different to others we had seen with the towering basalt columns surrounding the white water as it poured over the cliffs. Slightly marred by (but also entertaining), a group of photographers in the middle of the river below the falls in brightly coloured gear and no regard for others around them – or the sign that said Don’t go. Many folks will have bright yellow coats in their Foss photos!
The walk in and out was filled with rock forms, wild flowers and smaller waterfalls.
On the way back we made a detour that accidentally brought us to the remains of the original farm and an informative trail. The men had also had a win when they discovered not only were they right beside the glacier – they could walk on it.
While waiting we perused the board identifying birds when an avid Twitcher struck up conversation causing me to think how fantastic it is to have a passion and follow it.
Success all round and with the temperatures dropping it was time to move on.
As we travelled on towards Höfn and our stop for the night there was an exclamation of “Icebergs”! By now temperatures were uncomfortably cold, it was after closing time for Jökulsárlón Park offices – but we had to do it. “We will just go to the top of the hill” – once there a lake filled with icebergs greeted us insisting we move closer. While not crisply clean and white, the shapes and blueness of the ice was fascinating.
After warming up back in the car we came upon a river where icebergs were moving along towards the sea. Apparently they can become wedged along the shore as they leave the river neck. Again we had to stop and watch. A loud crack saw a large chunk drop off a berg mid river directly in front of us.
Thoroughly cold we headed back to the car and on towards Hofn, as we travelled Liz commented there was a famous church in a village we were passing. A sight not to be missed. Tempting though it was we could not go past. And we were pleased we had – Hofskirkja and one of the last turf churches built. It is still the local church with a graveyard that reads like a genealogical chart. Out front was a basin used by the blacksmith building the locks and hinges to cool the iron.
And finally with the weather miserable, high winds and cold rain it was on to Hofn where camping was deemed less than desirable and fortunately a room for 4 was found in the local Youth Hostel. A very comfortable hostel with a large well stocked kitchen.
Finally got to bed realising we had been travelling and sightseeing for 12 hours.
