Georgia. Shdugra Waterfall. Svaneti Region. Day 68 July 6th 2019
‘Georgia on my mind’ the song should be about this wonderful country. Today in the Svaneti region we hiked to the Shdugra waterfall. An absolute treat and from start to finish – the beauty of Georgia was on our minds.
To begin – we woke up in our chalet-like hotel / guest house Becho House. A quick check out on the balcony for the view of Mt Ushbu – looking clear, snow capped and towering above the hills surrounding us.
Downstairs for breakfast where the famous Georgian hospitality continued. A spread was laid out on the table with new tastes including Mchadi a perfectly fried cornbread, Georgian cheese, light omelette, fresh organic beef-steak like tomatoes. As we tucked into breakfast our hiking lunchbox was brought out. No. No. Don’t look – wait for the surprise I thought. All the information agreed it was a walk worth the effort with mountains, forests, rivers and waterfalls.
Then we were off – with a whole lot of mixed information – we were going to hike somewhere between 4 and 20km. It would be over 5 or was it 10 hours. It would be easy and flat or moderate and up trails. Ignoring all the conflicting information we trusted those around us – why would you not when we had a born and bred Svaneti guide.
After a drive from our guest house to the river’s edge, we began. The river sounded like surf pounding on a beach such was the force – a pale green racing water with white angry swirls as the freezing water surged down from the mountain.
Our mountain guide joked we had to wade across this – such is the Georgian hardiness, I initially believed him. A log bridge, followed by a series of rocks crossing the calmer waters, bought us to the other side.
A short walk on was a Hikers hostel and café after which a rocky climb began. This levelled off through a forest filled with conifers, maples and other deciduous trees. The walk altered between steady climb and cool forest walks. Views of the snowcapped mountains behind us, rocky outcrops following us, the pounding fury of the river below and the expanding glimpses of a wall of waterfalls.
In the middle of thick forest we came upon a freshly built log cabin complete with carved outdoor settings, a well structured toilet and running water. A large wooden sled lent against a tree. It seemed faintly fairy-tale like – a mysterious forest inhabitant.
Pragmatically our guided suggested it was more likely the work of the border patrol who live in the mountains year round. Further on was a gate barring the path beyond which was their base with horses, dogs and accommodation. Without a guide we might have stopped at the gate, surrounded by red and white taped off areas. Our guide walked on and so did we.
A long steady climb after the border posts lead to a ridge with a clear view into the large waterfall with smaller falls all around us and rushing water below. Climbing down to the water I filled up on the cold fresh mountain water, spilling over the cliff above.
It was satisfying to see the view back down to the trail and on to our starting point with the mountains beyond. A woman taking a break on the way up as we descended congragulated me on the walk and added “Respect” as we walked on. Chuffed.
Coming back down we stopped for lunch near the border station where cheeky unrestrained horses visited us looking for treats. Our lunchboxes were filled with fresh food – the most golden yolked eggs – and no it was not just because we were hungry – much of the food is organic by default – no pesticides available or affordable.
And on back down the way we came. Chatting with those who chatted back along the way including an Australian family we met accidentally. Crossing a stream I stood back to let a woman coming up the hill cross. “Thankyou” she said “That’s Ok” I said and we both looked at each other and started the “Where are you from?” conversation. They were from Sydney.
After trying to cross the river on a narrow log balance beam style instead of rock hopping – I slipped inelegantly into the water and with waterlogged shoes finished the last few minutes of our hike. A rest riverside before heading to Mestia and our stop for the next few nights. On the way we sadly dropped Nick our hiking guide off at the lovely Becho House.
