Day 39 Gwaii Haanas Tuesday 26th May 2015
By Chris
Began the day with one of Ryan’s favourite forest walks at the head of Rose Inlet – a “bit of bush-wacking” involved!
The centre place for the walk was a forest with large trees, heavily ferned and deep mosses with large culturally modified trees.
Lying in a line are 3 huge oblong wood blocks – the beginnings of materials for using on most likely house walls but again abandoned probably after Smallpox.
On return to the boat the motor on the skiff began smoking and it appeared the throttle was jammed in high speed. End result – Ryan shut off the motor and Chris and Ryan rowed us into the boat, while the sea was a bit rough the distance was not too far.
Once on board Ryan disappears below deck and appears with a spare motor!!
A spot of halibut fishing in the afternoon – jiggling would better describe it. James caught a small ugly fish on the handline, seconds later I pulled in my line to find the same ugly fish. Moved spots and Rosie took the rod while I went to the loo. Returned to find Rosie working hard to reel in what turned out to be a 51 inch Halibut likely weighing about 65lb.
A mammoth effort to get it on board, then kill it, then fillet the massive fish.
Once the Halibut was finished we headed to Rose Harbour taking a feed for the group gathered at Susan’s for dinner .
A pre-dinner walk through Susan’s large self sustaining garden built from the soil up by Susan over the years.
Walking past remnants of the whaling industry and into the forest behind the houses there was evidence of a partially carved out canoe, moss covered, blending into the forest surrounding it. Abandoned – familiar story – probably as smallpox forced people to leave. Photo as header above
Dinner for 21 at Rose harbour prepared by Susan was an extraordinary effort – 3 homegrown, homemade courses over a wood stove in a rustic kitchen.
Joined by Götz,the man we had met at SGaan Gwaay collecting stuff to recycle. An entertaining evening. Götz playing guitar. Eric trying to piece together the history and meaning of lives and relationships between residents.
