Day 83 03 July
Today was our friend and travelling companion Liz’s birthday. When we were down South she had really wanted to visit an ice cave. However we were told that this was only possible in winter, which was a disappointment. We were therefore delighted to find up here in the northwest that there was an ice cave open during summer because of permafrost. Liz was delighted and so we went there as her birthday treat.
We all met at the tourist information office in Myvatn by Anton one of the owners of Geotours who loaded us up into a “Super Jeep” which had tires the size of Texas and gave clearance over the lava rocks. As a local farmer he regaled us with stories about the lake and the surrounding region. Apparently one of Myvatn’s claims to fame is the flies which make up a critical part of the ecosystem. One fun fact was that apparently 50 tons of flies end up coating the bottom of the lake providing a rich source of food for birds and lake life. As well as flies there are apparently forty different types of midges! Might be beautiful to look at but hell in summer for camping.
As we entered the private land to get to the ice cave, he told us of a local legal stoush that had gone on for over twenty years over the naming of a local geographical feature. The fight was over whether it should be called a hill or a mountain and actually ended up in Iceland’s supreme court. The result was that there are now signs giving both titles depending whose land the signs are on. Anton suggested that this event gave an insight into the Icelandic mind and a generational commitment to tradition. Previous generations had always called it a hill.
After leaving the ‘jeep” we then walked across a lava field for about thirty minutes before arriving at the entrance to the cave where we got gum boots with cleats and helmets with a headlamp. After a slight issue with the combination lock we gained entrance and started the adventure. Our first challenge was to squeeze through a small opening into the main passage of the cave. There were further challenges as we went forward with narrow passages, slippery floors and ice columns to navigate around. After passing several major formation we arrived at one called the alter. After lots of photos we turned around and headed back to the entrance.
Half the appeal of the trip was the adventure of walking through a ‘wild cave” which had none of the normal fittings found in commercially accessible caves. No fixed lighting, stairs or ladders. Having said that we both still had concerns about the impact of tourism as one of our fellow travellers actually broke a crystal column.
Back across the lava field into the jeep and back into Myvatn on to Husavik for champagne and Bailey’s to the Vinbudin. The Icelandic liquor laws means that only government stores are allowed to sell booze and this was the only one for miles. The prices are extortionate but it was for a birthday after all and after forking out the price of a small Icelandic sheep farm we headed home for a “little party”.
