Prohodna Cave, Bulgaria Day 200 28th October 2018
Our parting gift from the Old Lovech Guest House was arguably the best Mekitsa we had in Bulgaria – light, fluffy, not oily. There was competition and disagreement about ranking but all three of us did agree they were good.
Slow start and reluctant walkers today after being party folk till the early hours. At least the day began with a drive. To Karlukovo and to the famous cave Prohodna. Also termed “The Eyes of God” – owing to two large-god-sized oval eye shaped holes in the top of the cave looking in.
In addition to the beauty and size of the cave the memorable for us was the variety of people visiting and using the cave. It was Sunday so many people were out for a Sunday outing. Within the cave there were –
Tiny tots climbing nimbly up the walls –
Experienced climbers trying the most difficult climbs
Bungy jumping at the cave entrance
And The Bulgarian Cave Rescue Club assisting a group of people with disabilities into the cave, out of wheelchairs and up so they could fly.
We stayed watching each of the groups for some time – enjoying the atmosphere of the cave as people enjoyed the challenges it provided. And our guide as always meeting people she knew.
It was possible to walk through the halls and out into the gorge on the other side. We did a slow walk up the hill where we could look back to the entrance over the bush before coming back through the cave to the carpark.
It was then we came across a large group congregating under one of the eyes. A group of red suited rescue workers were carrying people in and out on the rescue stretcher, another group were slowly walking ropes back and forward as they raised and lowered people in a sling chair. It was a group “Imposs-ability” with support from cavers and mountain rescue. People with disabilities were challenging themselves to rise high up towards the roof of the cave.
Lunch was at National Cave House a hotel and a restaurant frequented by cavers and tourists. The building was in a spectacular spot overlooking the gorge and river. The lunch itself was a little chaotic, very busy, not a clear system for serving, not great food, and customers tired of waiting. One group had waited 30 minutes to get a receipt and as we watched this became a loud exchange from the waitress towards the patrons. Entertaining but not a great look.
After our walking this morning and our party night last night we walked back towards the car ready to relax into the seats. No! We veered off and down a path towards the river. The thought in both our minds was would be walking back up this steep incline. The walk down was tricky in parts with a wire rope to hang on to and not much else but arriving at a tiny painted monastery made it more than worthwhile.
The tiny monastery was set into the hillside rock with brightly coloured frescoes painted across the front. Inside – a small chapel again decorated with colourful religious frescoes. The chapel had apparently been the site of an early hermit’s life of worship. On this Sunday the monastery appeared to have a stream of local people coming to light candles. There were seats and tables outside where people had been picnicking and sitting quietly. A peaceful contemplative spot.
As we walked back we discovered Nadia had taken good care of us – while others were walking from Prohodna to the Cave House which involved the steep walk up. We were walking along the river Panega gorge and over the hills to the cave. A lovely walk with views of the cave as we reached the top.
On the way home a final treat for the day. An eco house built by a man with a passion. Colloquially called the Flinstone house – a low stone house with curved, sloping, turf covered roof. The outside walls include enormous stones that had me wondering how it could have been built. The owner was sitting chatting across the road and waved us into to the grounds. I loved the wooden version of a Hills Hoist Clothes line – so much prettier!
Behind the house a stark row of limestone cliffs with a central stone standing out with its circular hole through the top.
