Day 32 Prince Rupert Wednesday 19th May 2015
Woke up in Eagles Bluff and appreciated our gorgeous surroundings. Our quaint granny decorated ‘Harbour View’ room was right on the wharf. We could see the eagles sitting on the poles just outside.
We could look across the boat filled marina to the large container ships moored in the channel and on to the forest covered hills on the other side.
Upstairs to breakfast where Mary quietly cooked our brekky and explained what we were seeing out the window – Spruce not “Fir trees”.
Eagle babies are much larger than adults. Combine with expert sightseeing advice. After breakfast we realised we had a new learning:
“Seek out local knowledge”.
Moved on to comply with an earlier existing ‘rule’
“Start with a visit to the local Visitor centre”
– which happened to be in another brightly painted building next door.
Our dilemma was betweeen a 20km hike through the Metlakhatla </a> or a visit to Khutzeymateen Park to see the Grizzly bears in their protected area. Mary had been quietly encouraging of Khutzeymateen Park, This decision was easily made when we were told a storm had closed the Metlakhatla hike.
Next door to the Adventure Tour office to book our trip to the protected park for Grizzly bears. A little shocked at the $200 ticket price (each) but decided this was special (see tomorrow – it absolutely was).
Practical stuff was finalised we headed to the little museum we had seen on our way in. The Royal Northern BC Museum . Another fantastic museum – smaller than others we have seen but well laid out, fascinating exhibits and a stunning gallery over the water. A further introduction to the Haida art and poles we will be seeing over the next week.
I was fascinated by a dance skirt made with tanned deer hide and all around the bottom were sewing thimbles. Also a mirror of highly polished stone.
A series of clothing from the different tribes in this part of BC showed very different styles including a northern tribe renowned for tanning hide with a display of the softest finest hide moccasins and clothing. Also included was an early Chinese outfit in recognition of the very early travellers who arrived in BC well before other explorers.
Caught the bus out to the walk Mary had recommended – Butze rapids (not pronounced Beautzee as I thought but plain old phonetic Buttzee).
What a treat the most beautiful 5 km walk through a range of landscapes – mossy lichen filled forest, scrubby pine wetlands and sea side.
This included fascinating rapids where the direction of the water changes around a small island. It looked wild and apparently is used by kayakers for “hole riding”!!
Missed the bus – caught a quick sighting of it as it pulled out of the car park. We had no water or food so I was not as relaxed as I might be but we did spend a peaceful half hour waiting for the next bus: Chris reading, me dangling my feet in the icy stream water.
Finally found a post office and sent off our mail after mortaging the house and wondering if mail was still sent by sailing ship! Told sea mail would take about 4 months and air about 4 weeks!!!
Then lunch – walked up the short less than lively main street. Passed an old building with specials board of Japanese fare out the front. Went in and found a cute café serving delicious food and not bad coffee. Javadotcup was I think part of a guest house.
Strolled around Prince Rupert town – small down-at-heel looking centre then headed for Cow Bay. A little area that has made the most of its heritage with brightly painted wooden buildings and a focus on the Cow theme “Cowpaccinno” café on the corner. Black and white cow print everywhere.
Above the bay were substantial houses perched on a steep rock cliff. While looking like the rich end of town Chris checked real estate suggesting we would have one for around $300,000.00!
Back to Eagle Bluff – washing day,so badly needed we had to wear hot bods while waiting for clean clothes.
Dinner Dolly’s is a long standing, well known, seafood establishment in Cow bay. Owned at some point by Dolly of course and we decided to give it a go for dinner. Later discovered that Dolly was one of the women featured in a book I read ‘The Gumboat Girls’ about the movement of young women to British Columbia from all over during the 60’s and 70’s.
My first fresh Halibut – absolutely delicious, thick white flesh and the waitress bought me a photo of it – a little like flounder but thicker and bigger, she explained she had seen Halibut as tall as her!
