Day 169 to 170 August 2nd and 3rd Old Believers and the Onion Road
Hardly an enticing exotic name ” The Onion Road”. It was not the pull of onions and fish that excited me it was the settlements of Old Believers – past and present. Maybe it is just the name but the Old Believers are a bit of a fascination for me. For Chris the fascination was the border of Estonia and Russia – often through the middle of Lake Peipus.
On this visit I learned more about what differentiated the Old Believers from the traditional Russian Orthodox
Along Lake Peipsus there are many small fishing villages and settlements with remnants of earlier lives – Old Believer prayer houses, old wooden houses some restored, some derelict.
Long roads along the coast – apparently historically the Old Believers built their roads parallel with the lake. One main road being 8km. Along the way were the familiar churches with their own ‘onion’ spires of the Old Believers
These roads can be long and beautiful – different coloured wooden houses some with thatch and stone. Rows of wooden boat sheds. Small canals channelled from the lake up to the villages.
Finally at the end – the Coast guard. Unsure of where we could and could not go – the towers reminiscent of Border towers – maybe they were. We were worried we might overstep
Finding places in Estonia proved difficult for us. Signposting seemed less than bold and clear. After missing several hikes – though always finding alternatives – I was determined to find the Old Believers Museum in Kolkja. We came across a museum – maybe that’s it. Google translate came through this time translating one word – Chicory. No I said I don’t want Chicory I want Old Believers! As we circuited the town we stumbled across it – wonderful. An Old Believers house with rooms set up and wonderful banners with history and explanations in multiple languages including English.
Kala Sibula Restoran – an exotic sounding place which we eventually realised translated to ‘Fish and Onion Restaurant’ – recommended by our Estonian friends as the best – and it was. As we drove up to it, there was suspicion on both our parts that my navigation had failed again. It was hard to see a restaurant – looking at a large house with small windows, doors all closed and even as you walked in the entrance hall was quiet and home-like. Opening the door to the restaurant was like opening the door to colour and life.
Photos lined the wall, people lined the restaurant. Samovars on each table. Minty tea was served with a bowl of what looked like fudge – boiled sugar. We could not find out how we were supposed to use this – only that one did not add it to the tea. Little did this matter when the food was served. It was a menu mainly comprising fish and onions – in the most delicious and fresh concoctions.
Onion season was just beginning and roadside stalls were few. One stall appeared the quintessential tourist photo – for those brave (or insensitive) enough to take it. An older woman, delightful plump face in colourful traditional dress with a young girl. A colourful stall with strings of onions hanging along the top. I was tempted to buy a string of onions so I could ask to take a photo until my travelling companion questioned what I would do with a large bunch of onions!!! The picture memory stays with me!
After the drive along the narrow lakeside road between Kolkja and Varjna we headed North – our aim to eventually reach the border with Russia tommorrow.
Along the way we stopped at Kallaste having been told there was an ATM in the supermarket – and as we found a small vegetable market outside where we got fresh tomatoes and cucumbers to go with bits and bobs we got from the supermarket in case there was no food at the guest house. Good decision on our part.
The road along the lake seemed to have villages that appeared to be part Old Believers part ‘Soviet time’. By the latter I mean inexplicable blocks of apartments – some derelict, some with signs of being lived in but tired and some renovated – all in places that apartment blocks seemed out of place.
A lunch break (best forgotten) – “Is the fish fresh?” “No it is frozen” “Why do you have two sorts of burger?” They are cooked in the microwave”. The plus side was the menu was generously and honestly explained to us in English, the spot was right on the lake shore-picture perfect and our server was delightful.
Mustvee was a lovely beach town described as having a population that remains half being Estonian half being Russian. A growing tourist centre and it showed.
First stop tonight Matsu Guest House in Sahagu. I thought this was quite near our friends favourite beach at Kauksi beach – maybe not quite. I had tried to find accommodation near the beach – unusually bookings were heavy and camping was not an option for us – in the end I may have got us a bit out of the way but it was an experience. The woman who greeted us, and looked after us for the night spoke no English and our Estonian has only got to “Ita” (Thank you). We were the only guests in quite a large place – the room was cute and cosy – the shared bathroom no issue when it was just us. Through mime we established we could use the kitchen and the bar was open!
