Day 53 April 7th 2017 Newgrange
We are becoming quite confident with our buses and getting around Dublin so we set off confidently this morning getting the Number 15 bus to Cuffe Street then we planned to walk across St Stephens Green to the Shelbourne Hotel where we would meet our tour for the day. Plan was brilliant except the driver struggled to understand our accents – undeterred we found our way.
The walk through the green was a reinforcement of yesterdays information overload on the 1916 uprising – as a key area St Stephens green has information and statues throughout on key people and events. This includes the Shelbourne Hotel a strategic hold for the British troops.
We found the bus and our fellow tourists on the Mary Gibbons tour. Our guide who was also an archeologist was informative, an expert at keeping up patter and information throughout our travels. A key learning was that archeology leaves more questions than answers and while striving for accuracy many theories can flourish. The sites of Newgrange and surrounds seem to have even archeologists differing in their views of how the site looked and its purpose. An example being a sun window that aligns with sunrise during winter solstice. Thought by some to be only 50 not 5,000 years old.
A more unexpected learning was the links between the Irish and Indian language with what is thought to be ancient common roots.
Our first stop was the Hill of Tara an area near the River Boyne with a history back to at least Neolithic times and of course disputed in its use and age by those studying it. The area is an expanse of green covered lumps and bumps which form hills, burrows, moaty looking areas and lines. All ancient markings and structures including “a small Neolithic passage tomb known as Dumha na nGiall (the Mound of the Hostages), which was constructed around 3,400 (cal.) BC.” And a phallic looking stone that apparently once stood at the end of two lines in the earth but was moved to the top of a nearby hill by a farmer some 100years. This stone was thought to be used to choose the next King (happily it is reported “King” could be male or female). The contenders would ride their small chariots alongside with the aim of making the stone sing heralding king material.
Then on to Newgrange a stunning and controversial structure. Controversial because some believe the reconstructed panel of quartz and egg-like stones is unlikely to be original. Also contentious is the sun window above the entrance – some say it is 5000 years old some say it was constructed in the 1960’s during reconstruction of the front.
Whatever the controversy the inside structure with huge stones fitted together forming a self supporting roof is incredible – and these stones have not moved in many 1000’s of years.
Surrounding the outside of the structure are 97 large (very large) stones many with artwork along them
