Lyon, France Days 109 to 125 August 18th to September 1st 2019
Lyon may well be the Gastronomic capital of Europe but this was a time for us to enjoy a home – cook, eat in, play house, hang with our house and puppy-sitting responsibility – a sweet little dog.
House-sitting allows us to “live like a local” for a little while. I know – not really even close to local, but it feels like it – especially after being on the move since April. Our current house-sit in Lyon is perfect – a lovely apartment, a dog with the most gorgeous nature, a river nearby, all food needs in walking distance and local life all around.
Our status of really-not-being-local is highlighted when it is necessary to visit the Tourist Information Office to find our way around. As always we get gems of information about Lyon and what to do. We had high expectations after reading they were the European Winner of Smart Tourism. They fulfilled – apart from a little glitch on an audio device refusing to work. We loved the Only Lyon slogan but overheard a group asking the Tourist Info person what it meant – not up with Anagrams maybe.
The local life is enhanced by a nearby Boulangerie smelling of fresh baked breads, filled with people drinking coffee, baskets of baguettes, piles of flaky croissant and displays of sweet pastries. If not already entranced La Chocolatine won us completely when we ordered a Baguette. As we took possession we realised it was a warm and fresh smelling bread stick – it changed our itinerary – straight home for lunch! Crunchy outside, bready, holey inside.
The beauty of looking after a dog is that you walk. You discover all kinds of architecture in the area even near the supermarket when marking time while Chris shopped,
Mostly I shopped. Local supermarkets in a different country and different language are a secret pleasure of mine. Prowling the shelves looking at new and fascinating foods. Watching what local people are buying. Asking fellow shoppers what something is, and how to use it. A new adventure every time. To add to the adventure, we have been to all three of the supermarkets close by. One is best for vegetables, one for beer and wine selection and one is close by for emergencies.
Sunday, most shops are closed. I popped into the only supermarket open for cheese and a baguette. This seemed so very French until I reached the checkout. Queues snaked down each of the aisles. People had trolleys piled high with goods. No fast lane – no option but to queue and wait. Waiting became entertainment, and not what I expected on a lazy Sunday in a French supermarket. New lanes were forming, people were becoming agitated. In front of me, a couple rammed their trolley across the queue only to be chastised for jumping the queue by the woman in front of me. They merely moved to block me instead and I was not saying a word! This same couple then tried to suggest to the checkout person that the bunch of parsley they had was old and should be given free! When told ‘No’ they tossed the bunch over the counter beside the checkout person. All of this was in French, but enough words and gestures enabled me to cobble the story together while waiting to purchase my two items.
Finding out about health care systems in the countries we visit is another fascination of mine. Is it free? How do you access it? How good is the healthcare system? There seem to be more countries with at least some funded health schemes than not – leaving aside the endless crazy debate in the USA!
The health care investigation in Lyon was more part of the “living like a local” than interest. I needed to see someone about the ankle I injured in Istanbul. A few streets away was a Sports Medicine physio recommended by our hosts. Incredibly helpful and interesting – no thanks to my lack of French, and all thanks to both the Physio and fellow patients I met, speaking English. Conversations expanded from ankles to health care, occupations, study – and well life really. And through it all my ankle treatment was effective and well – magic. How lucky was I to find Sebastien Doric more than a physiotherapist, a therapist who quickly put me at ease (I was concerned that I had once again broken a bone!!) and who gained my trust in the first session.
Having a dog to walk twice a day ensures an explore of the local neighbourhood. And we find lots to explore – with 2 major rivers at our doorstep, parks, local streets close by, and two good walks each day – we cover a lot of ground. The river walks are dominated in all directions by the incredible Confluence museum building.
Each day we explored a little more of Lyon with, and without, our little charge. Our first day out sans dog we take a ride into the city and up the funicular to the Basilica dominating the town. The sight must have been imposing for those in early days, even today everywhere in the city the Basilica shows itself.
From the Funicular after a stroll around the Basilica we opt for walking back down to the river through the Roman amphitheatre ruins ###. This becomes a little too hot to linger in with sun burning a 30c+ day.
A walk through Vieux Lyon the old part of town on the Saone banks narrow shaded streets filled with shops and cafes housed in earthy coloured buildings. The bright coloured silk shops hard to resist with displays of jacquard and silk fabric in rich deep colours.
Each day we venture into the centre of the old part of Lyon we find different streets and views to explore. A long standing watch shop###, an inviting and well-stocked natural food shop – Naturalia buildings old and new side by side. And always close by or in view – a river. A beautiful city.
Living like a local also meant some of life back home followed us. I have many memories of Chris on the phone home while we explore new and exciting places. Here it was the old streets of Lyon.
On a Saturday we decided on a bike ride to the Tete D’Or Park. Hiring clunky – but functioning bikes from the local hire stop we leisurely rode along the river to the huge Tete D’Or park. There all kinds of local life was in progress – family picnics, couples promenading, overflowing restaurants, children following their parents on bikes.
And of course weddings.
