Lovech Bulgaria, Day 199 26th October 2018
Lovech had hype and instagrammish photos building its reputation before we arrived.
First a sad farewell to Lubo – it had been huge amounts of fun. On finding his car lonely on the roadside we waited to see that it started. Headlight trouble on the way up resulting in him leaving the car 10km or so from the hotel. It started, hugs again, on we went. We three to Lovech and Lubo to his home.
Lovech – we had read and heard about the lovely old town, the covered bridge, the fortress now for the real thing. Travelling down from the mountains we arrived reasonably early into the cobbled streets and Levski dominating the town from above.
The first task was to find our guest house. Both of us in admiration of Nadia’s driving through barely-single lane, wobbly cobbled streets with sharp turns, and parked cars lining the sides. Google Maps again! We came to a laneway -steep, narrow, with large very uneven cobbles, Google Maps showing our guest house just down the cobbles a little. This time we mutually decided to park and walk then seek instructions from our host – a wise decision a slightly easier drive came from the other direction.
The host at the Guest house Old Lovech was more than happy to let us check-in despite our early arrival. As soon as we walked in the door I exclaimed this was my new favourite. From the outside an old Revival style whitewashed house, with dark brown trim and flower boxes under the windows – a covered wooden entry and door from the side. We later discovered it was over 200 years old, part of the Varosha area – protected old town.
Inside, a narrow polished wooden stair case – sloping with age – lead up to the rooms. The rooms contrasted light polished wood with the white bedding. On the ground floor a large dining room and entrance hall. The dining room shone with warm polished wood tables, beams and bar with exposed stone walls lining the room. We sat at the beautiful slab table filling out the obligatory forms and chatted as our host, Dimitra, served us fresh coffee and buns.
As we finished the delicious warm buns our rooms were made ready. Time for quick unpack along with an Ooh and Aaah over our room – and off to the Lovech Fortress.
Unmissable owering over the town, in front of the Fortress is a giant statue of Vasil Levski – in Bulgaria they take their statues of liberators very seriously and this is one of the largest. Many were built in Communist times as Russia celebrated its part in the liberation of Bulgaria from the Ottoman empire. The statue is lit at night – a beacon visible across most of Lovech. A handy landmark for us as it was just above our guest house.
Lovech fortress sits out on a hill with an almost 360degree view. Built over layers on the hillside and over eras of occupation it has recently undergone a significant restoration. Settlement on the hill goes back 1000’s of years with early artifacts found on the site during excavation.
At one point I found a beautiful rock construction and on asking what fascinating function they would have formed my bubble was burst when it was explained it was a modern reconstruction not an ancient structure.
After the fortress we followed Nadia up the hill nearby grumbling that there was always a hill involved! The trail was not what it once was but we came out between two narrow rocks to a view over the valley below and on the ledge below us a trail leading off into the distance. A Roman Way. Fascinated I am. These roads criss crossed Europe and are even mapped –
Travelling is an excuse to try very different foods from what we are used to. Keen to try all specialities and delicacies in Bulgaria – today it was Lambs Head – literally all the edible parts of the head in a dish. Rich, disconcerting, tasty. Not sure how to really describe it – a range of textures that included tongue, brains, cheek – maybe once was enough for me! For Chris we ordered a plainer sausage and mashed potato while he was off looking for his lost camera. On return he was relieved not to be eating our traditional dish.
After lunch we visited the Vasil Levski museum a small museum containing the largest collection of Levski’s personal effects along with a history of the revolution and key people who took part. Small but worthwhile – though Nadia’s help was needed as most information was in Bulgarian. The ticket-seller was surprised and delighted we wanted to visit,
Bulgaria where women featured in history! Unlike the histories of many countries focusing on the men and war – here women too were remembered. In the Vasil Levski museum I discovered Baba Tonka – (Tonka Obretenova) who was a major support in the revolution along with her seven children. Fascinating trivia – there is a cove on the South Shetland Islands in Antartica named after her.
On the banks of the Osam river is a Hamman an ancient public Bathhouse now restored as an EU project and housing a multimedia display about Water. Me – I prefer my Hamman’s in their authentic state but understand the need to draw people in. A beautiful building and calm simple interior that includes the steam engine used to heat before the Hamman ceased operation.
We wandered along the river into town past rows of shops – multicoloured, multistoried with colonades lining the streets. The appearance was more of a European town such as Vienna. In the centre the covered bridge – once a thriving centre for craft and artisans now more shops selling souvenirs. The bridge is one of only 3 covered bridges in Europe.
