Day 147 to 149. 11th to 14th July Lulea to Rovaniemi
Finland was an unplanned destination – not even in our pre-musings and plannings did it come to mind. Yet here we were on our way – and excited.
As with many of our travel adventures time here now seems too short – an extended transit stop between Sweden and Estonia, deserving of more time.
Leaving Lulea is a day of transport hopping: bus to the Haparanda – Tornio border. Chris feeling he was walking in the footsteps of history knowing Lenin had passed this way on his return to Russia. Lenin might turn in his grave now if he saw the giant Ikea store surrounded by camper vans, tour buses and a variety of transport people use to visit the store – load up and return home. An excellent way to bring a border town alive.
From the border another bus to Kemi and then the train to Rovaniemi. The train was a small two carriage affair yet still with catering and a conductor on board!
There have been many moments of tension and humour at our different approaches to travel – Chris with apps on his apps to plan routes and get precise times. Me wandering along without a plan (and often without a map) – seeming to leave it all to the App man! This time there was anxiety on the bus as Chris became increasingly concerned – we would miss the connection at Kemi. We would not find the platform and make the connection in time. The bus pulled in to the station – a one platform station, a computerised train guide and the train still minutes away. Relief.
At Rovaniemi our amazing host Rauno from the ‘Lapland Flower Stall Apartment’ picked us up at the station and took us on a tour of the town before introducing us to our cosy little apartment.
Rovaniemi apparently once the largest (in land measure) town in the world. The town centre is quite contained – radiating out from Lordy square. A city square dedicated to a heavy metal band. It’s claims another famous person being the home of Santa. Santa hotels, Santa’s office, Santa’s village. Santa Claus everywhere.
Rauno had recommended a restaurant serving local Lapland cuisine ‘Nili’– on first look it seemed quite expensive so we did the circuit and after seeing Pizza, Kebab, Mexican and Pub meals all similarly priced we decided to go the local option. Nili restaurant – pleased we did. A lovely night surrounded by Lapland memorabilia with a heavy accent on Reindeer. Friendly staff in Lapland dress, and tastes of local foods. The menu included of course reindeer meat, and our favourite a marinated raw fish in local herbs and spices.
We discovered the trap of almost 24 hour light – it is easy to stay up late and not even notice the hour. Both nights we forced ourselves to bed at 1am with light still bright outside.
The late bedtime meant slow starting in the morning but we managed to wend our way to Arktikum a local science centre and museum in a stunning building designed to show the internal and external landscapes.
The museum housed a number of temporary and permanent exhibitions. One of the temporary exhibitions was fascinating – entitled “Hot Stuff” we were told it was about mating, a sign outside described “humping”. Self described as “The upcoming sexhibition of Arktikum Science Centre dives into the flaming love and carnal delights in the freezing Arctic.”
Another temporary exhibition was unfortunately not accessible for us as it was only described in Finnish. We later discovered it was the 100 objects for the 100 years of Finnish independence and it did look interesting.
After the museum in the chilly summer day – a wander around the town centre with a quick and delicious Kebab for late lunch. As we wandered we stumbled across the state owned liquor shop – and the only shop allowed to sell alcohol except beer – interestingly named Alko.
After another lengthy expedition to a supermarket – translator in hand it was home to cook dinner in our little kitchen. On the way home noticed a menu board outside an Indian restaurant offering Reindeer Vindaloo, and Reindeer Madras. We resisted and cooked our own version of Mac cheese Finnish style!
Leaving went like a well oiled machine – breakfast, packed, and leaving the apartment at 11am. Taxi found just behind the apartment. Short ride to station – bus to Inari – more than that the bus driver offered to drive us directly out to the Hotel in Inari.
An adventurous ride for us, though locals barely noticed as we stopped along the way to allow Reindeer to cross the road. It was also puzzling to see the bus pull over and someone get off seemingly in the middle of nothing but trees, lakes and road.
A pleasant day trip past some of the many lakes in Finland and we arrive at Hotel Koltahovi – beautiful – right on the River Juutua – which was fast flowing past the window of our room.
As with many places Sauna in our room! Chris had read that if every Finn used a Sauna at the same time there would only be two people in each Sauna. I read 3 million people and 2 million saunas!
