Karlovo, Koprivshtitsa to Sofia Days 201 – 202 31st October to 1 November 2018
31.10: Koprivshtitsa –
After lunch by the river we again left Lubo and headed towards the final (and fourth) K town – Koprivshtitsa. A town that came with a big reputation and it took no time at all to see it was worth it. Koprivshtitsa is said to be one of the most characteristic Bulgarian towns, it showcases the 19th century Bulgarian National Revival period.
Sitting at the base of the mountains the town spreads along the river. It is said to contain 383 architectural monuments from the period! The restorations to original presentation are beautiful and throughout the town.
In addition to the houses themselves there are a number of museums of ethnographical treasures, art of the period, crafts including traditional weaving and embroidery. Past ways of life, costumes and typical Bulgarian jewelry are also displayed.
The first shot of the April Uprising in 1876 against the Ottoman empire was fired in 1876 Koprivshtitsa. The bridge (First Shot Bridge) famed for this event was just outside our magnificent guest house, aptly named the Once Upon A Time.
Before settling in to our lovely guest house – a final afternoon of learning and sightseeing. Again beginning at the monument – yup another giant Communist era extravanganza overlooking the town and continuing to:
Benkovski’s house
Nearby his house is a school (now a museum) where education flourished, with many revolutionaries being educated there. Nayden Gerov was a teacher who while educated abroad including in Russia came back to teach in Koprivshtitsa. His major works including a Dictionary of Bulgarian Language.
Georgi Benkovski was a key part of the Uprising, arriving with Botev on the steamship the Radetzky. He lead troops to Koprivshtitsa when fighting broke out prematurely there. Leading men in a guerilla warfare style through the mountains during the 1876 uprising. Engendering loyalty in the men: “I believe if Benkovski mounts a horse at this very moment and cries “Forward” everyone here shall go with him even to hell” Zahari Stoyanov a fellow revolutionary and writer. He was later betrayed and killed.
A nightime walk through the town to dinner – the mountain air creating a chilly walk through a streetscape that felt like a step back in time. Cobbled streets lined with revival style buildings gently lit. The next morning a further quick walk to try and reduce the impace of a feast of pancakes! Time to head to Sofia.
1st November – a very special day in Bulgaria – Buditeli day. There are a number of interpretations of this day including it celebrates the teachers. Buditeli Day is a day to celebrate and pay “respect to enlighteners and national liberation fighters who preserved the values, morals and faith of Bulgarian people during tumultuous centuries”
Returning to Sofia a grateful trio in the car acknowledged how wonderful that instead of dropping us off at the airport we would be sharing a last meal in Sofia before saying So Long till Next Year!
And what a meal it was at Shtastliveca Restaurant – Shtastliveca meaning the Lucky Man – and lucky we were. I would have been content to sit in the surroundings never mind food. – stepping into a superbly overstuffed space of 1930’s vintage, Yet the food and wine were wonderful. The perfect way to end our time with Nadia.
And then it was back to the green of England – and the beginning of the end of this years travelling life.
