Kobarid – Most na Soci – Lake Bohinj Day 181 – 183 9th – 11th October 2018
Woke up still raving about and recovering from our superb dinner last night at Restaurant Polonka – traditional Slovenian dishes in the cutest restaurant. Another of our wander off the street and find a gem moments. Venison goulash with noodles and Gnocchi with mutton sauce.
The day began as many do – at the Tourist Information office – provided a map and instructions for the Soca Historic trail that included part of the Walk of Peace that stretches from the Adriatic coast to the Swiss Alps. The combined walk is about 5km – that we of course managed to turn into 7km with our unique way of navigating (or should I say my unique way of reading a map).
A walk of history and scenic beauty with few people along the way.
The walk included:
Remains from Roman occupation with the excavation of significant Roman ruins
WWI sites particularly the Battle of Kobarid in 1917
The Walk of Peace – where we did meet school children visiting and learning about the war.
Soca Gorge – the water colour indescribably green and clear as the river runs through gorges and along the valley.
Napolean bridge crosses the river – a bridge built by the Napolean and replaced several times until its current picturesque curved stone bridge.
Kozjak waterfall with a walk through forest up to it.
Evidence of the Italian line of defence remains including the path that follows the river, trenches,
Tonocov Grad Hill a settlement and defence fortress for many centuries. Evidence of many settlements have been found from Roman late Antiquity period. Excavations are significant and the walk up is steep.
Steep climb up with a view that made the puffing and panting worth it,
And on to the end where we had heard much about the Kobarid Museum – and its presentation of the wars particularly WWI Isonzo front with the battle of Kobarid a ferocious battle in the mountains around Kobarid where 1.7 million people are said to have died.
And on to Most na Soči – our home for the night was one of the most hospitable – we were welcomed with a platter of local dried meats and cheese and wine. A small studio apartment that had absolutely everything one could want.
Car Train to Bohinj- despite an early start it was a bit touch and go whether we would make the train. A combination of what appeared simple instructions from locals that we failed to understand in the real world. A lack of GPS and maps. A lack of people around to ask. Eventually we spied a man taking a pee off to the side of the road, waiting a tasteful time we finally got the directions needed.
Once at the station finding our way in was still difficult and made the train with moments to spare (and a lot of tension on board). The experience soon trumped any angst. Whizzing along the countryside sitting in your car on a moving rail carriage was quite an experience particularly for a train lover!
The tunnels were a little frightening – sitting atop the carriage with no light except the train engine up front and the cool dark of the tunnel all around.
All too quickly we were at Bohinj and time to leave the train.
After shopping for our stay hunger nagged so we found the closest restaurant to the carpark – what a gem – Strud’l another traditional Slovenian meal in a cute surround. This time beans and sausage. We needed it for the navigation to the Lake!
We navigated our way through narrow roads with buildings seeming to be denying access and finally Lake Bohinj Hostel. It was an “old school” type hostel simple rooms reminiscent of early days hostelling. As promised it was lakeside.
An exploratory walk into the small township that included a little lakeside sojourn, a chilly walk through the tall trees edging the road and sunset from the town bridge. In the centre of town a we climbed down into a unique setting for a photographic exhibition – pasted along the walls of a dry canal bed. A great contrast to the photographs of musicians performing.
On the small hill on the edge of town a memorial large bronze of four men “Four Courageous Men”
Hostel Couple who had ridden motorbike from Singapore through the stans to Slovenia. New destinations put on our list.
11th October
Excitement as we headed off having sourced Electric bikes for the day – a line of new bikes outside the Post Office come everything shop. Excitement quickly dwindled as I rode off through the carpark stopped and fell off. No matter what we did the bike was too high. Sadly we returned them.
As we walked back we spied pedal bikes for hire – no even close to new but it fitted – kind of – so off we went. Not the most comfortable ride but a beautiful path around the lake – waters so clear the reflection was perfect.
Stopped at a small church with frescoes on the outside belltower wall. The Church of the Holy Spirit built in 1743 was closed when we passed by still the outside was simple and appealing.
Lake so still and clear the reflection showed every detail including the little tourist boat chugging along,
We found a perfect lunch spot for a simple picnic right on the lake beside towering hills and a perfectly still reflecting lake
Dinner we headed to what was recommended at the best burgers in town if not the world – Foksner Agree absolutely. Well washed down with “Wombat” beer
