Iran. Bam Rayen Mahan. Day 242 3 October 2017
An early start for us as our cab driver picked us up for a visit to three of the key sites around Kerman. What a gentle, generous, man – providing tea and fruit along the way.
Mahan was our first stop where we visited the 15th century mausoleum Aston-e-Shah-Nemetallah-e-Valli shrine , the tomb of Sufi master and poet Shah Nemetallah Valli the site was one of pilgrimage.
The entrance with beautiful use of trees, plants and water creating a calming cool feel in the middle of desert like surroundings. Throughout the complex were several large decorative pools surrounded by garden and arches leading onwards decorated with turquoise tile work and intricately patterned stone pathways. Above was a blue tiled cupola and minarets standing out from the simple stone coloured building.
The calming effect continued in the central room of the main building containing the Sufi’s tomb with soft white tile work and muted patterns. The patterns on the tiles gave a delicate lace-like appearance to the dome and the walls were more simply decorated.
As we left an older man came up to Chris and gave a greeting we had not experienced before but came to know. A hand placed over one eye.
A small museum had been opened for a group such before us so we snuck in for a quick look at a small collection of beautiful ancient artifacts including a large incense burner???
A short drive out of Mahan we came to The Shazdeh Gardens one of only 6 persian gardens in Iran. Standing on a stark brown plain the contrast is amazing, truly oasis like. From the entrance you are drawn to a cascade of pools with fountains and waterfalls leading all the way to a large curved pavilion at the top. Along each side a large symmetrical garden mirrored each side of the water.
While all was closed for our visit there was evidence of food stalls, icecream carts and the large carpeted day beds for relaxing.
A peaceful place to ponder the meaning of life and to escape the heat.
On to Rayen Castle, an extensive adobe citadel thought to be over 1000 years old. The site was maze-like citadel – fortress containing a governor’s residence, administration building and living quarters for the military with all the infrastructure to support them – bakery, stables, kitchens. A myriad of rooms off a maze of corridors was visible from above the structure. Long smooth walls topped with turrets and looking sand-castle like.
Finally on to the famous Arg-e-Bam. Dating back centuries it was previously the largest mudbrick structure in the world. It suffered badly from an earthquake in 2003 with much being destroyed, losing its status. Bam is another UNESCO listed site in Iran.
This huge mud-brick citadel is now the focus of a significant restoration effort. Again like Rayen it had all the infrastructure of a city within its walls. The distinguishing feature of this citadel was that the main governor’s residence and military command was on a hill within the fort’s walls.
Hungry by this stage using charades we let our driver know and after a bit of searching found a family-run café with simple but tasty kebabs and rice before heading for home.
