Day 16 – 17 October 27th and 28th
Katsu our guide and owner of Kumano Experience picked us up and took us to the putting in site on the Kumano River. “The Kumano River is part of the Kumano Kodo and is the only waterway on the planet that is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Pilgrimage route.”
We are delighted to find we are the only two on the trip and also that we are heading down River!
This will mean that the current is our friend. we are hoping for a more leisurely kayak trip than our recent adventure in Quebec.
The putting in spot is a bit of a challenge. we have to get the kayaks and all gear down steep stairs and across a rocky river edge. The descent is about 30 metres and requires several trips.
Once accomplished Katsu tells us that our trip will include traversing rapids. He explains how to paddle through them and that the rapids are not significant. Reassuringly he tells us to follow him and all will be fine. This calms both of us.
Around us is a gorge, it is quite and silent with the huge steep granite walls rising up either side and large tumbel donw rocks lining the banks.
We hit our first rapids and following nstructions we are slightly swamped but get the drift of how to get through them. We are also reassured in the knowledge Katsu has kayaked down mountain rivers and over 30 meter waterfalls. We are in good hands and feel comfortable in this.
the other challenge is the wake of the large jet boats passing as they power up and down the river. The jet boats slow marginally as they approach and Katsu always has a keen eye and ear out for their approach.
At one point we came upon a grader dredging out the channel in the river. We were waved through with a smile and bow from the driver.
We stopped for lunch where the river broadened out on a beach lined with huge rocks.
The paddling was idyllic with sunshine and the current pushing us along. Barely a need to paddle.
Late afternoon we beached for the night. This time a flat rocky beach lined with forest.
First job – unpack and pitch the tent for the night. As we pitched our tent we realised Chris was going to struggle with his lovely long legs. Barely long enough for me. One night and such excitement – we managed.
Too cold for a swim but a lovely peaceful spot with high cliffs opposite on the Kitayama river.
We sat around a campfire as Katsu cooked up a lovely meal and we talked. A wonderful time to ask many questions puzzling us as we travelled. What was the significance of the ritual when one visited a shrine? What did Wabi Sabi mean?
Segundo. Yamabashi. Wabi-sabi – “simple enough in a too much world”.
Apart from a wonderful two days along the river the highlight was a full Moon over our campsite at Kitiyama.
Back to Yunomine and this time the Ryokan Yoshinoya which had been recommended by Tony. While we missed our bubbling friendly hostess at Yamane this was lovely and the food another multi-course feast.
