Kyrgyzstan. Karool-Ata to Bishkek. Day 19. May 18th 2019
After a sumptuous breakfast at Nora’s festive table, we head off down along the valley again.
This was a truly magical guest house experience. A part of a group called Community Based Tourism (CBT) which has houses all over Kyrgyzstan.
We stop on the way at the Burana tower. One of the UNESCO sites in Kyrgyzstan. The centrepiece is a scene-dominating minaret – the central attraction of an archeological site. The site once represented the centre of power for the rulers of the region. The rulers, the Karachnandids led from around the 10th to the 12th century, the site was later destroyed by the Mongols and ignored by the Russians who each overran Kyrgyzstan over the centuries.
The minaret was rebuilt in 1975, along with the foundations of two mausoleums, citadel walls and a city wall around the entire site. Walking up to the top of the tower required navigation of the narrow dark staircase and streams of enthusiastic fun-loving school groups. The view from the top was worth every step.,
Petroglyphs and stone statues have been brought to the site displaying working grindstones, ancient grave markers and stone figures known as Balbals
After scrambling back down the inside of the tower it was time to get back on the road for Bishkek – a short drive away but sadly time when we would say Goodbye to the wonderful Ramil.
Bishkek first impressions – lots of parks but doesn’t feel as sophisticated as Almaty.
We arrived in Bishkek about lunchtime. Ramil walked us through a park to a traditionally decorated restaurant where we tucked into dumplings, salad and bread.
Ramil left us and we were joined by Ruslan who would drive us to Osh.
First, a tour around Bishkek and some time to wander on our own. First impressions were of lots of parks interspersed with Soviet-style buildings. Earthquakes have meant that the number of floors that can be built is restricted. We started off with a tour via the universities, of which there are two. One for local students and one for international students. We walked on past many old buildings from the “Soviet-era” – to us uninspiring in the main, not being fans of the “brutalist” architecture of the era.
In the old Central square, we were introduced to Manas. In Kyrgyz culture, he is a heroic figure who is credited with merging competing tribes together, one thousand years ago. He is featured in the two main squares of the city. Tales of his bravery are told in a major Epic which although printed is also celebrated by oral interpretation. Those who have mastered these stories, and the telling of them, are also celebrated by having their busts displayed around the edge of the square. Colourful gardens surround the squares and there seemed to be a strong focus on maintaining them.
A woman!!!! An exception. Mel was excited – a rarity. We came upon this statue of a local hero – a woman – Kurmanjan Datka known as “the Queen of the South”. Kurmanjan Datka ruled a region of what is now Kyrgyzstan. Renowned for resisting Russian occupation, odd this statue survived given other statues are seemingly very pro-Russian.
Other statues that feature are definitely from the “Soviet Era” – heroes to some, not only in Kyrgyzstan. ‘There is a spectre haunting Kyrgyzstan……” (for our readers that did not go through a communist phase this is an adaption of the opening line of the Communist Manifesto”. That spectre is a sculpture of Karl Marx and Fred Engels chatting together. Also featured in another park is Lenin.
In those countries that left the USSR, it is unusual to find statues of these gentlemen still standing. It speaks to the fact that like all the countries in this region there is a historic link to Russia that needs to be maintained for economic and global political stability. In the local sense, politics has not been stable and there has been a number of revolutions and protests, with at least two presidents being forced to flee the country amidst allegations of corruption and cronyism.
In commemoration of the last revolution where people were killed in 2010, there is a statue that we visited called “Monument to those who died for Freedom”. This was not only anti-government but apparently also had ethnic overtones against the Uzbek minority. Given the number of statues we saw, I particularly liked this one, it was strong and got the message across – forcefully.
Behind the old central square is the new central Ala-Too square which again features a statue of Manas next to a giant Kyrgyzstan flag complete with a sentry post manned by two young soldiers. The changing of the guard occurs on the hour and we arrived in time to see the ceremony take place. I had thought that it was time for the goose-step to go out of fashion but apparently not! The young men performed their function with aplomb, perfect timing and a little theatrics.
From the square, we moved past the “White House”. You will be surprised to learn that the President lives and works there. Yes, it is white and that is where the similarity ends. Another architectural legacy from “Soviet Times”.
Last stop was Victory Square commemorating the victory over Germany in World War II. There is a recurring theme here in each of the “Soviet Era” cities. This one has three struts to represent a Yurt and instead of charging soldiers, we a female statue gazing into middle distance-representing the mothers of Kyrgyzstan.
A pleasant city made more so by the use of large gardens and parks. Designed on a grid pattern it is fairly easy to get around. After our city tour we walked to a delightful restaurant called Vinoteka. Which had a great wine list including wines by the glass, delicious European-style food – Pizza, salad and wine in Kyrgyzstan anyone!
A pleasant day and as usual another adventure-tomorrow, the great outdoors-beckons as we head into the mountains.
