The Channel Islands.Jersey. What a perfect spot for house-sitting. In a little town filled with ancient stone buildings and narrow roadways. An island full of history, art, beaches and fascinating politics. Add to that: restaurants galore, fresh food, markets, seafood, cheese, wine. All wrapped up with two cute little dogs to keep us active.
But wait there’s more – amazing public transport, local friendly supermarket close by, good local facilities – including a new recycling program. So many plusses that not even winter could dampen our spirits.
Walks aplenty and two little dogs eager for all the miles we could make. While footpaths were limited and roads were narrow – drivers were mostly considerate. On occasion, we set ourselves more of a challenge than intended such as a lets-go-back-along-the-coast walk that had us clambering up cliffs and over rocks and blocked by sea. Finding stairs cut into rock that lead nowhere. Caught between tides lapping below us and craggy sharp cliffs above us while seeing people happily walking the beach ahead of us.
A less challenging, and a favourite walk took us along the old railway track. A path that lead through the forest, past a small dam frequented by local birds, and alongside old rambling houses with equally rambling gardens. Close to St Aubin the walk past the St Aubin World War II tunnel, officially closed for winter. On one walk it had the doors open so in we popped. The young worker was happy to allow us a peek inside the large arched tunnel – part of extensive construction during World War II as German military protection.
Even the political system engendered curiosity for those so inclined. The States of Jersey, its history and political system have been explained to me several times – it’s complicated – it seems to make sense – but no I can’t explain it – ask him! Or see this link HERE. My understanding extends to Jersey having its own parliamentary, financial and legal system. Amazingly for a tiny population it has its own currency – aligned with the British Pound – with the latter interchangeable on the island, though not so in the UK.
In brief – here is my school-exam-answer to “Briefly explain the history of Jersey’s government?” Political history predates the formation of Britain. Jersey was once a part of the Norman kingdom before, and at the time, it invaded Britain. It has a different relationship to the Crown – it is a Crown dependency; a self- governing possession of the Crown. The constitution is based on Norman law. Since the Middle ages, the country has been governed by representatives from each of the 12 parishes of Jersey – The States of Jersey. That’s my limit – a 4/10 answer at best.
St Aubin was our home. A small town, a short bus ride (or a longer beach walk) from the capital St Heliers. Despite living in the centre of St Aubin town, despite being surrounded by pubs and restaurants, it was quiet. A supermarket, restaurants, and the harbour all a few steps away.
What We Discovered.
St Aubins Fortress
Offshore a fortress, first built as a simple tower in 1588 and subsequently extended and rebuilt until 1888 when it ceased to be used. Later it was refortified as part of the whole of island fortification during the German occupation through the second world war.
The added drawcord to the fortress was that you can walk out to it at low tide. A novel walk we delighted in when we could. Occasionally getting stuck in boggy sand the dogs were unpeturbed.
The Occupation Tapestry
The Occupation Tapestry began as 12 (now 13) panels depicting the occupation of Jersey during World War II. Completed by the people of Jersey – over three hundred people, 7,500,000 stitches, and 30,000 hours worked using 1,418 hanks wool. The panels were all planned but the needleworkers added little touches – a little cat, flowers etc. Absolutely incredible – so accurate and so vivid. A wonderful way to tell, and colourfully remember the story.
St Matthews Glass Church
Another treat was St Matthews Glass Church. An accidental discovery – on the bus to St Heliers it announced St Matthews Glass Church -the only announcement made. One day we rounded up the dogs and off we went to investigate. From the outside a small nothing-special church. Inside Oh WOW – Lalique glass!!!!!! The altars the chapel walls, the cross all sculpted glass. Incredible. Breathtaking. Simple. Stunning – the superlatives could go on…..
Giant Tidal Range
Jersey has the third largest tidal range in the world. The tide drops 8 – 12metres – meaningless to me until we saw high and low tide complete with boats rising and falling. New photos each day as we saw the low tide from all angles; watching boats quagmire in mud, completely aground, then rise up to the top of the sea wall.
Walking Tour of St Heliers
“Join one of our home-grown legends” was the invitation from Jersey Tourism. We did and he was. The Tourist Office recommended a walking tour with Pete Webb a man with extensive knowledge of the history; a bag full of supplementary photos and info; and a wonderful theatrical delivery. So good we signed up for a second tour enticingly entitled Behind Enemy Lines. The first a walking tour of the city and its history the second a short history of the occupation during WWII. Being guided around St Heliers to enliven the history – the hotel where Victory was proclaimed, boats in the harbour that had participated in the evacuation of Allied troops from St Malo, evidence of the history of slave workers.
While the tour covered only a tiny part of the city, it covered a vast history. Places one would walk by – or over – without noticing. A ‘V’ in the pavement, a spot we had already walked over several times. As part of the resistance a stonemason had placed a V for Victory in replacement paving during the occupation.
Proud of their history and heritage there are also virtual tours online if you can’t quite make it to Jersey
Jersey Maritime Museum
Mention Maritime Museum and one of us is off the enthusiasm scale the other yawns and thinks not another one. Fortunately (or unfortunately) I can be surprised. The Jersey Maritime Museum surprised in a good way. The cliché ‘something for everybody’ springs to mind. From children to adults. Seafarers to landlubbers. Along with a maritime history of the island, the usual ship models and maritime artifacts, there are works of art with audio to describe each work. Interactive exhibits; fun facts and the Occupation tapestry mentioned above. A favourite of mine was the Knitted Reef.
In many places we have visited, where winters are long and cold an interior life is vital. In these places we have invariably found craft and creativity. In the Shetland islands we stumbled across a local literary festival, on Jersey we saw inspiring craft works – a display of intricate miniature scenes, the Occupation Tapestry, and – the knitted reef. The knitting was done by 11 schools on the island, along with knitting groups and volunteers. The construction used 77 kilograms of wool which is said to be 215,880 kilometres of yarn. The huge and brightly coloured work depicts the life of a reef with undersea creatures, plants and life.
Jersey Cultural Life
Art installations throughout St Heliers are mandated by government as a means of sharing the financial services bounty with the community. Theatre, music, crafts and arts are performed, made and presented across the island. The Jersey Arts Centre is a hub in St Heliers and it was here we searched for a night out.
The Jersey Arts Centre website had an enticing calendar of events local and international. While many were through the summer season winter, was not bereft on entertainment. We chose an evening performance by Trio Isimsiz. A blissful night as the trio played a wide music selection.
To make life easy for us finding our way at night, we arrived early and found a table in the busy Cafe Jac for dinner preshow. Fast, efficient and delicious, a warming chicken curry with trimmings as the growing patronage increased the buzz and the warmth around the tables.
A tagline for Jersey might read “A Little Island With A Lot”
