Ishravashan to Penjikent. Tajikistan Day 30 May 29th 2019
Tajikistan – a country I had heard very little about. I do not remember it featuring in news at home. I do not remember meeting people from here before. Right now I Love Tajikistan! A beautiful and friendly country.
Today we left the city and the valley for mountain scenery. Over the mountain pass from Ishravashan to Penjikent (Panjikent).
Unusually neither breakfast nor dinner was provided at the hotel with two large elaborate dining rooms! Fun for us as we got to share a local cafe breakfast before heading to Penjikent. I opted for a local traditional breakfast not unlike a simple English Bread Pudding. Warm flavoured milk poured over chunks of bread.
The ride was a mix of incredible scenery and wonderful local experiences.
Leaving the city limits we came to a road filled with sheep and their herders on the way to the mountains for summer. It was ancient meets modern as the ancient shepherding met with modern cars in a hurry to get somewhere. Horns tooting, cars overtaking 3 abreast with no place to go, the donkeys and their load keep on plodding forward while the sheep go in every which direction.
Other local experiences included stopping at a small local dried fruit and nut bazaar in the middle of the mountain pass where we tasted and bought a selection of delicious nuts and apricot products including woodfired apricot kernels. While competition was tough for the sellers there was only camaraderie and co-operation amongst the sellers. Sharing sales with each other. No haggling. No tourist prices.
The scenery moved and changed as we rose up from the valley over the mountains and passed villages and valleys. Distant snow covered mountain views peering up over every turn of the road.
As we descended down into the Zeravshan Valley and Penjikent we passed through steep gorges of multi-coloured layers. Rivers deep in valleys. Villages set in green, lush and vibrant oases on the plateaus and in the valleys.
Mudbrick villages overhanging the roadside
One stop at a village was bordered by a stream pounding down the cliff face to the valley. A roadside stop for travellers passing through with locals displaying wonderful ingenuity. Drinks were displayed on the cliff face with spring water showering the bottles to keep them cool.
A regular stop for travellers along the route other cars pulled up including one looking a little worse for wear as smoke poured out of the radiator. Unperturbed a photo with Chris was requested while car inspection was carried out .
The final stop before Penjikent surprisingly was a winery. Paradinso Winery and while the formal shop was not open we were able to see the range of wines (also later more elegantly displayed in the museum) and purchase. Recommended was the most popular Gul Guln described as “Sweet red” and tasting like a delicious sherry. The cognac – surprisingly good. Also new in the range a Merlot and a white wine – yet to be tried.
And finally to Penjikenta an ancient and major city, established in the 5th century AD by the Sogdians.
Our first task was to lunch on the traditional, original Plov from the (said to be) ancient home of Plov. Local rice – a short grain fine rice cooked with carrot, onion, lamb and herbs and spices. Served with a simple salad of tomatoes, onions, cucmber and Chalop a cold soup of yoghurt, herbs, mineral water.
Our hotel – Hotel Sugd was in complete contrast to last night. This time service is above and beyond – friendly and thoughtful. Staff checking to ensure you are comfortable. Simple breakfast provided.
