Day 237 28 September 2017 Kalibar – Tabriz:
We stayed the night in Kalibar – a bed in a lovely hotel for the night with no justice done to exploring the area. After another sumptuous breakfast we left Kalibar for Tabriz.
Our journey to Tabriz took us through clay coloured ranges with multi-coloured patterns through the hills. The striations of colour looked as though they had been painted on giving the mountains an artificial look.
And on to Tabriz – firstly lunch in a cool, plant filled restaurant – Delestan Restoran. Complete with a small indoor pond and water fountain and enthusiastic staff. Platters of artfully served food included the usual kebabs and a range of tasty vegetable dishes.
Tabriz Bazaar, a UNESCO world heritage structure which features endless cathedral like vaulted avenues lined with stalls and goods on display. Stalls with vaulted windows, above which rises domed spectacular brickwork making patterns and colours over the vaulted domed ceilings.
The Bazaar had once been a business centre on the Silk Road route. It was prominent when Tabriz was the capital from the 13th century.
Free time. In a Bazaar with over 7kms of laneways, 22 domed halls and 24 Caravanserais – is not something that initially seemed like a great idea. How would we all find each other, more importantly how would we find Leila again? Initially daunted after days of being shepherded everywhere, we moved as one but gradually separated to find our different shopping lists and explore.
Gaining confidence meant losing your way, travelling off the main avenue. At some point we crossed laneways with Carol and Judy. Overwhelmed we wandered together through the wide array of goods. Laneways dedicated to various items – carpets, jewellery, stationery, cooking items, dried fruit and nuts. One laneway seemed to specialise in bright coloured and many styles of travel bra bags!
We were offered tea from a small stall it seemed we were as fascinated by the tea making as the tea-makers were with us. Large Samovars serving little tulip glasses of tea. Carol realised she would like to get one on the characteristic teapots – white with red and gold flowing patterns on the base and the head of Shah Abbas on the side.
As we stumbled around like the Pied Piper we collected the remainder of our group and a man in one of the small shops who offered to help us find our shopping lists. First the teapots in a small stall filled with samovars, pots and pans, tea sets. Then sweets – rows of stalls with trays of sweets of every variety including proudly spruked local Tabriz nougat. Dried fruits, nuts and the most delicious Iranian dates – so moist, so tasty, so fresh. Eyes followed us wherever we went. Our guide laughingly explained locals often think he too is a tourist because he had blue eyes – he was a local.
Finally we were delivered back to Leila with no expectation of payment and all shopping done.
The entrance where we met up was also the entrance to the Jameh Mosque. While not as impressive as other mosques we visited the coloured multipatterned windows with light coming through and the pale intricate tile work inside the long vaulted room was simpler but still beautiful. A sunken area at the front of the mosque – appararently a place for the Iman to prostate himself without risk of being shot or attacked.
The Blue Mosque was our final visit of the day. As always the age of buildings astounds. The Mosque was first built in the 15th century. Later it was significantly damaged by earthquake in 1779. Reconstruction did not begin until the 1990s and continues. While much of the Mosque had been destroyed some original has been left and other parts are being reconstructed.
Much of the Mosque entrance and interior are covered with beautiful intricately patterned tiles in shades of blue.
Tonight a bit of luxury our ‘Or Similar’ is the International Hotel in Tabriz
