17 September 2017 Bhutanese Farmstay only
My favourite stay in Bhutan was not a hotel but a Farmstay. A traditional and rustic Bhutanese house surrounded by rice fields – Tshering Farm House.
We arrived at dusk driving up a short winding driveway to a large two storey building
Met at the door and taken through low ceilinged rooms to the upper level where huge slabs of burnishes wood formed the uneven floor, creaking and moving as you walked across. The smell of smoke and incense gently permeating everything.
Our room was a simple twin room with small windows overlooking the yellow and green of the rice fields contrasting with the flaming red of chillies drying on the rooftops.
Bags strewn on the floor we were immediately taken to a corner and dressed in the traditional Kira (women) and Gho (men) of Bhutanese dress. Still worn by most in Bhutan including as school uniform. The beautiful Kira worn by most women and girls looks so delicate and I had wondered given the chilly temperatures how they kept warm. The outfit was surprisingly warm.
The Gho seemed much more complex, requiring much measuring, precision tucking and folding to secure it in place. It seemed it would be beyond the skill of many who had not grown up with it. Once completed it comes with was is humorously referred to as the biggest pocket in the world – a huge tuck in the front above the belt capable of holding a baby!
The area immediately outside the room was a large ornate seat with a decorated drum either side. A seat for the visiting Monk. Facing this was a room closed off by heavy dark wood doors. Inside was a beautiful shrine which I was told I was welcome to use for meditation.
Beyond this room and before the stairs down to the bathroom and rest of the house, was a room used for the evening meal. Our dinner was shared with guests who had come just for the meal – a simple traditional meal preceeded by Butter Tea and followed by a small cup of Ara – Bhutanese rice wine.