Panorama Route, Mazani Canyon, Bourkes Luck Potholes, Cradle of Human Kind, Ann Van Dyck Cheetah Sanctuary
Day 16 to 18 – 27 to 29 April Kruger to Johannesberg
For two people who love their sleep in we decided to get up at the 5.30am usual to say goodbye before our fellow guests left on their morning safari. Said farewell to our new Canadian friends Jerry, Lyn and Dana and our Irish friends Adam and Angela.
After a reluctant goodbye at Kambaku and an early morning transfer complete with wild life sightings we were met by Janet from Ekala tours in Hoedspruit for our day on the Panorama Route . a 30km road along the ridge of the Malazty (formerly Blyde) Canyon the third deepest canyon in the world. Citrus orchards and nut farms feature heavily in the valley before we climbed up into the mountains past craggy rock faces and along the canyon ridge.
On the way we quickly entered an interesting discussion about Apartheid and the realities of the restrictions on all races which reinforced the segregation. Comment was made about the less well known names of the anti Apartheid movement such as Albertina Sisulu and husband Walter Sisulu, Oliver Tambo, Steve Biko and Denis Goldberg.
Arriving at the Mazani Canyon we begin at the Three Rondavels lookout – a view across and down the deep gorge to a trio of rock formations that look like the traditional African home (Rondavel). On the way out Chris bought a small stone carved Rhino from one of the local sellers to carry with us.
Gods Window was a wide vista taking in surrounding countryside and even Mozambique on a clear day – this day was layered with blue haze but still a view down the gorge and out to the land beyond.
Next stop was Bourke’s Luck Potholes a popular spot it seemed with groups and families climbing over the paths and picnicking or stopping at the tourist village alongside. The Potholes form at the confluence of two rivers creating a large area of water-shaped gorges and rock formations. Shapes made in the rock with water pounding through below. Small waterfalls flowed throughout the rocks and walkways.
The Pinnacle was our final stop a sharp rock free standing in the centre of a short gorge. Standing in the centre of a bush filled canyon.
By now we were well and truly ready for lunch so headed for Harry’s Pancakes – a well known restaurant in Graskop – with a large range to choose from – both sweet or savoury – we all opted for savoury; Chris for bacon and cheese me smoked trout and Janet Spinach and Fetta – all agreed – delicious.
Finally on to Jo’burg and the Ekala guest house which Janet, her husband, Malcolm, and daughter Linda run expertly and jointly. The farm guest house is part of a small farm running sheep at Alwynspoort about thirty minutes out of downtown Jo’burg.
After settling in to our comfortable room we shared a beautiful dinner prepared by Linda and passionate conversations about Johannesburg, cricket, hospitality and politics.
28th April
Up early and off to the Ann Van Dyck Sanctuary. This privately owned Cheetah sanctuary was the result of one women’s passion to protect the cheetah. It began when Ann Van Dyck took in three cubs whose mother had been shot by a farmer. At that time they were taken from her. Ann badgered authorities and complied with requirements such as building appropriate facilities. All to satisfy officials that she could provide appropriate care which she has now been providing for 40 years. Ann herself retired only recently and is currently 87 years old.
As we arrived one of the Cheetahs was about to run – a streak of spots and sleek body.
The sanctuary had the world’s first successful cheetah breeding program and continues to run careful breeding programs for a number of species. There is also a collection of other animals including King Cheetah – almost extinct, Vultures with damaged wings, wild dogs, Civets and Caracaul. Visitors are guided around the various animals in a safari vehicle with animal knowledge shared along the way. Of particular interest were some of the camoflauge markings such as the Caracaul with fluffy earth coloured tips on their ears which look like waving grass.
An on to Maropeng and “The Cradle of Humankind”. A large area, World Heritage Listed, which provides many fossil sites, and built the theory that man began in Africa, along with many careers and fascinating stories of those studying and exploring the area.
One such story was the finding of Little Foot – discovered by Ron Clarke, a Paleontologist in 1994 but took another 20 years to excavate. “Little Foot” is a Hominid and dated at around 3.67 million years old. So called because of the little foot bones first found. Since this time 90% of the bones have been recovered.
A wonderful exhibition explained the recent finding of Homo Naledi and further fossils in the cave system. A great story which involved cavers finding a number of bones that turned out to be a hominid that had not previously been identified. The job description required slim, short cavers as the access was very small leaving the head of the team Lee Berger above ground.
A large exhibition hall provided history, exhibits and information on the development of humankind. Detailing the various finds in the region, the evolution of our bodies and the challenges facing humankind in terms of the environment, inequality and population growth. Reinforcing the fact that we are all one species.
And finally to the Sterkfontein caves where major archaeological finds had been made. Including the famous Mrs Ples now thought to be Master Ples. We were led into the caves by Kenneth who was articulate, informative, and funny. Showing us areas where fossils were thickly embedded in the cave rock.
The site is managed by the University of the Witwatersrand which provides training opportunities for guides and tourism management.
And back to another fascinating dinner conversation accompanied by Linda’s superb three course meal – tonight her special Chicken curry after hearing I enjoy spice.
Such a treat to be with a family providing such wonderful service: guiding, hospitality, companionship, and there knowledge from a life lived in and thoughtfully through the recent history of South Africa.
Go to bed looking forward to a lay day around the farm tomorrow.
