Day 120 – 122 August 9th to 11th
Delays meant arriving into Köln – late, hot and bothered but it all worked. A short easy walk to the Pathpoint hostel followed with welcoming, friendly, faces at reception. There was little time before meeting Marcel and Jil but time enough to set up my little dorm space and cool off.
What a beautiful evening in Köln. We had met Marcel and Jil briefly in South Africa on our first Sani hike. After a couple of conversations, we had brief contact since, along with invites to meet up if ever we made Köln. Not initially on our travel list but here I was.
Firstly, Jil and Marcel lead a walking tour of the centre of Köln chatting all the while about the buildings and history. A peak inside the magnificent cathedral – about my only memory of my vsit to Köln 40 years ago! Another peak -through the fence around an excavation that was originally a carpark, now an archeological dig. An ancient (Roman era) Jewish area was discovered – I had hoped to go back to the museum of findings before leaving but not to be.
Eventually after walking the beautiful squares and laneways we stopped for dinner – and Kolsch beer at a favourite eatery. Beer in small straight sided glasses – filled until your beer mat on the top of a glass indicated enough. A traditional beef dish swimming in delicious sauce for Jil and I, a magnificent large portion of shiny roasted pork knuckle for Marcel.
After dinner a walk to see the sunset over the cathedral spire. A sunset viewed from a bridge laden with padlocks over the very low Danube river.
Finally after more chats and beers, night time wandering to see the lights it was a reluctant parting. Such a wonderful night. Complete with suggestions for tomorrow pre train. 2 together before – but last night I saw this big neon sign “4711” – and I suddenly twigged 4711 Eau de Cologne is the ‘water from Cologne’ – fancy – I know I know!!!
My walk before the train was recommended by Jil. Firstly to the Belgian Quarter where in the early morning it was still cool and beginning to wake up. Wandering through streets of I found Breseler Platz, nearby a leafy green spot opposite the church where a lovely little cafe – Miss Päpki. I stopped for breakfast. The German menu stumped me a little except for obvious international breakfast items – muesli, croissants. The staff were very helpful. I reluctantly declined the beautiful looking smorgasbord breakfast served as a high tea would be served, and opted for ham and cheese roll. Not your usual – perfectly textured bread roll, perfectly filled with tasty ham, cheese and fresh salad.
After this I set the GPS for Friedhof Melaten. The cemetery seemed an odd choice yet I was curious as it had been highly recommended. A large peaceful park filled with large trees, gardens and memorials of all kinds – old, current, statues and small plaques. An unusual stone gravestone – a whale rising up – under thick green bushes. Seats scattered throughout the long laneways. Gardeners busy throughout the park. A quiet place to wander, a surprise given the city so close.
As I strolled I checked Google maps found I needed 45minutes to get back to the station so contemplation and quiet was over.
Back at the rail station anxiety rose as I had to retrieve my bag from the computerised locker. Trying to store my bag along with another traveller we had watched and puzzled over the system. He eventually worked it and helped me – including offering me the coins I was lacking to complete the transaction. The storage was not in a locker but a computer system that took your bag similar to airline checkin and gave you a card. You are warned – lose your card and you lose your luggage! Despite my anxiety waiting the 40 seconds of whirring while your bag comes along – it all worked.
Staying in Brussels was the closest I could find to the station – the Ibis – recommended by The Man in Seat61.
The hotel is a short walk from the station – if you take the right exit! I had looked up a place not too far away for dinner. The walk there was a tortured reading of wrong ways with a lovely discovery of old squares filled with people, and street side cafes, buildings of all colours and decoration. At some point I found Foire du Midi ### (the name I found out later). A street long fun park with rides, games, fun fair food and noise.
In the centre was a large Ferris wheel. Watching for a time I decided it would be a perfect way to get a birdseye view of the city. The quiet of being up above everything was an added surprise.
After that walking on to dinner only to discover it was the place I had read about but not the food quality. Not unpleasant sitting watching the comings and goings in the square which seemed to accommodate a broad range of human condition – tourists coming and going with packs and suitcases, grandparents entertaining children, people with a range of life issues congregating around the corners of the square.
The final stretch was my first trip on the Eurostar from Brussels to London Kings Cross. An unremarkable trip – pleasant enough, helpful friendly service and comfortable seats. And finally London.
