Day 85 23rd July 2019 Budapest
After a late arrival by train into Budapest, we went to the apartment of our hosts Henrik and Eszter. Although late Eszter had cooked a lovely dinner and we had a wonderful conversation before bed.
The next morning after some good advice from Henrik we headed to a local metro station. We purchased some a seventy-two metro pass which freed us up to travel as we wished. Our first stop was near the Danube where we were able to see the beautiful buildings of the city along the Buda side of the river. Originally the cities were split in two and today Pest is considered hip and happening with Buda seen as more conservative. Of course, we were on the Pest side!
After coffee and pastries (Turos Taska-cottage cheese in a pastry bag, and Dios Csiga- a cinnamon roll) at the aptly named Butter Brothers, recommended by Henrik, we headed back to the River. The public transport in Budapest is brilliant and with our, all services 72-hour ticket and Google maps we felt able to simply go anywhere. We caught the Number two tram which tracks alongside the Pest side of the river until we arrived at the Szechenyi Chain bridge. One of the amazing things about Budapest is how it suffered during World War II but how beautifully restored it is today. As we cross the bridge I am reminded of the fact that all the bridges across the Danube were destroyed as the Germans exited the city after a fifty-day siege by the Russians.
On the other side, there is a beautiful funicular built-in 1870 which ferries people up to the Buda Castle complex. We opted for this as it was a quick way to get up the hill and we had decided not to explore the whole hilltop area. Instead, we had decided to just visit the National Gallery in the castle a decision in retrospect we were very happy with. There is a lot to see on the hilltop and you can get a shuttle bus up to the hill and around the whole district. The funicular is short and guys selling the shuttle as you stand in the funicular queue will tell you their way is more cost-effective. If you are intending to visit the whole complex it might be a good idea.
After a very short ride, we were able to get a great view of the Hungarian Parliament Building and the other Buildings on the Pest side.
We then entered the gallery and I was delighted to find that there was a surrealist exhibition on. However, we started with the Hungarian permanent exhibition as we feel that a country’s art can give clues to its history and culture. We started with Hungarian contemporary art post-1945 which showed the influences of European art on Hungary after the war during the Communist period and what has happened since. There is an interesting mix of emulation of European styles, the impact of the rigidity of communist times and a new movement towards a unique Hungarian style. I was particularly drawn to a couple of pieces which I thought were interesting the experience being enhanced by the audio guide which was one of the best we have used. Mel continued through the other periods whilst I went off to the surrealists. A great exhibition including my favourite artist Magritte detailing the development and demise of the surrealists as a group, It also featured some works of Miro and Dali.
Also on offer is the opportunity to go up to the dome of the palace which gives a terrific 360-degree view. Luckily we were there we were the only people present. It was magnificent.
We then caught the funicular back down and headed along the Buda side of the Danube in the tram. We later went out a great Hungarian Jewish restaurant before heading to a Czech beer bar. Although Budapest has a reputation as a party town it is still possible to find local pubs that are not seething with tourists.
Traveller’s Tips
See the great blog on Budapest trams: Budapest Trams. It sets out how you can use public transport to design your city tours.
Also a description of the architecture: Budapest Architecture 1
The details of the Metro Pass: Budapest Metro Travel Tickets
I have nearly lost my mind with ticket machines in Europe. The ones in Budapest are a joy and they have an instructional video! Ticket Machine-How To
The Castle Complex: Buda Castle Complex-The debate of funicular vs Shuttle bus is set out here.
The National Gallery: National Art Gallery
