Day 75 Battle Harbour 2nd July 2015
By Mel:
A rare treat: 2 nights in one place; plus free time in the day; plus a magical mystical place to be. It is- and remained – a strong favourite for “Best Place”
Woke to mist, cold and icebergs floating outside our window. Just how you imagine Newfoundland to be. Well 25 foot of snow is not imaginable to a person who is not used to snow.
We are looked after by wonderful, hospitable people. Our favourite is Daphne – nicknamed ‘Darlin’ as that is her warming term for us all as she looks after us.
As with many staff here Daphne has an ancestral connection and her immediate family lived on or close to Battle Harbour. Moved to Mary’s Harbour on the mainland as a community. Part of a government policy for resettlement which moved many many fishing communities along the coast. Some by choice, many not so. Battle Harbour like many villages was left to the elements until it was decided to reconstitute it as a tourist destination.
After brekky we were given an extensive guided tour of the buildings along the wharf with large chunks of history; personal, local and national.
Our guides were Nelson – a local and Tony. Strong personal memories from both men painted the history for us sharing together their Labradorian and Newfoundland childhoods. Particularly the Cod Moratorium of 1992 and the impact on their family and community.
Careful listening was called for as Nelson had a strong Newfoundland way of talking. “Hoice” l finally got was “ice”. ‘Codmor’ was the Cod Moratorium.
One small example of the learning – salt – needed for the salted cod – was introduced because it came over in ships as ballast. The merchants decided it could be saleable and sold it to the local fisherman dependent on the merchants for their goods (as payment for their valuable catch).
Battle Harbour had also had significant brushes with fame – the most famous being Robert Peary the first person to return from the North Pole. A funny moment when we all recreated the photo and Charles was chosen to be Peary. He looked concerned and wryly said – “My grandfather did not believe Peary was the first”.
After lunch – free time. Cheryl, Marcelle, Chris and I set off over the hills behind. As we walked we could see most of the rest of our group scattered across the moor-like space.
Points of interest included a plane wreck from the 70’s, a young local man who did not clear the hills and there was no knowledge until several days later when a young Nelson found the wreck.
After dinner was the kitchen party; an event we had been practicing our Newfoundland songs for – some of us even working on never-before-harmonising.
The night included a visit from the Mummers a fascinating history which comes from Irish / British history and may have originated in Rome.
The night included Tomoko and I becoming honorary Newfoundlanders; this involved answering impossible questions about Newfoundland dialect; drinking Screech (form of Rum) and kissing a Cod; and finally being knighted!
Way too much fun was had along with much music. Discovered with the help of Maureen who could find and hold a harmony, I could harmonise. Though later in the night Marcelle, Cheryl and I thought we were fantastic but were a little less successful!
