Day 192 – 193 20th to 21st October 2018
The colours, the mountains, the winding roads, the huge cliffs, the deserted buildings. Where to start?
Wending our way along the Iskar river to Lakatnik village, -a favourite place for climbers and alpinists – neither of which we are but it is fun pretending.
Chris spent his time planning what could be done with each of the deserted buildings we saw! Many, many buildings empty and some looking like a lot of love and effort would make for a wonderful place.
The morning walk was frighteningly visible as we parked. At the top a monument built to commemorate those who died during the September uprising in 1923 . That was our destination – “a little bit up”. The long walk up a steep incline was on our minds as we looked up – the September 1923 Uprising was not, Yet it is part of the complex and confusing history of Bulgaria.
The walk itself was entirely manageable for us as we mentally cut it into chunks of ‘ups’. An enjoyable walk through a wonderful range of bush, limestone rocks, autumn trees, cliff faces with views out along the river valley.
The views along the way were stunning up along the limestone cliff faces pocked with caves and down to the villages and river winding through steep autumn clothed valleys..
As we walked we were convinced we could here “doof doof” music in the air. As we came closer to the top, a further surprise, as we discovered a DJ and group of young people with their techno music piercing the beautiful quiet. Somehow under the huge communist monument it all seemed entirely appropriate.
As we returned via another of the trails we could see climbing routes and a tiny red roofed shelter poking out near the top of one cliff face – a tiny tiny house for climbers to stay.
A different route down with huge rocks, tunnels and caves lining the route back down towards the Iskar river gorge.
Finally back down, lunch was an absolute treat. A short drive took us up a narrow winding road to a riverside trout farm and café. As we sat on the verandah of the simple restaurant built over the river we were served fresh trout cooked to moist, white, perfection with a local salad and local beer. Simple, exquisite.
In the afternoon a walk Braji Duke Climbing Area along the trails close to climbing routes. Climbing is a big deal with great sites in Bulgaria. Not well known outside Bulgaria but popular within.
The trail was lined with huge limestone caves and curved limestone rock formations. Despite the threat of rain a few climbers were out – or should I say Up – the cliff faces.
Below the forest was filled with deep oranges, yellows and browns of autumn and in the distance the calls and occasional shots of pig hunters could be heard.
21.10.2018
Leaving the guest house after a traditional breakfast of Mekitsa a large fluffy, puffy doughnut style treat. Served with Bulgarian Honey and home-made jams – served with a yoghurt drink which convinced you it was somewhat healthy.
Today Vratsa Mountain Range. Again stopping frequently to admire the vivid autumn colours. The typical potholed Bulgarian road wound tightly down the mountain. At one point I looked down at the GPS to see a screen filled with hair pin bends.
Finally levelling out as we travelled along the Iskar River Gorge, again surrounded by towering cliffs, and rock formations with the river accompanying us along the road. We passed formations that reminded of a Dragons back, passed white limestone cliffs pocked with caves surrounded with the red, orange, yellow autumn colours as the leaves changed with the seasons.
And on to cliffs that surrounded the road on all sides with again a number of popular climbing routes including within the caves – handy when it threatened rain.
Our first visit of the day was to the Ledenika Cave One of the more populist caves visited. Limestone caves surrounded by a children’s playground, a large amphitheatre and new – but on this day almost deserted – entrance building. Surrounding the car-park was a host of small stalls selling tourist trinkets including flutes for children the sounds of which could be heard echoing around the valley.
Once inside the huge forms were lit (we thought unfortunately) by multi-coloured lights somewhat mitigated by our expert knowledgeable local guide.
Our hope had been coffee before the cave tour but finding nothing but a dispensing machine at the site, and not being THAT desperate we waited. It was a lunch worth waiting for. We stopped at Chaika Restaurant a large chalet style restaurant attached to the hotel. Surrounded by limestone cliffs and in the centre of cliffs popular with rock climbers.
Chris had “Rila meatballs” and talked of them for the rest of our trip. All meatballs benchmarked against these. I tried a Bulgarian Pumpkin desert, The first impression was a cold surprise, after expecting a warm dish. The sweetness of the wedge of pumpkin was enhanced by honey and sprinkled with nuts. Pleasant and not sure.
On to Vratsa. It was bitterly cold with a biting wind whipping through the town square. Towering over the square was a massive (communist era), chunky stone statue of Hristo Botev – one of the young men credited with liberating Bulgaria, despite his death at the hands of the Ottomans during the 1876 Uprising.
On another side of the square the Vratsa archaeological museum appeared closed. On our own we would likely have missed the opportunity. Undeterred Nadia entered and instantly lights were turned on and doors were opened. A wonderful small museum, made more special with Nadia’s specialist knowledge and excitement at the exhibits. Among these were the Gradeshrivsta clay tablets – pictographs from possibly 5000 years BC, the oldest in Bulgaria.
As we came to the end of the regular exhibits we were lead to a room with special locks and guards. As the lights were turned on the gleaming silver and gold was breath-taking. The Rogozen Treasure. This was one of those fairytale stories we all love. An older man was digging a trench in his garden when he found a huge collection including 65 pieces of silver objects. Eventually another 100 vessels were excavated, the largest collection of silver objects from the Thracian era was unearthed.
One of my top accommodation favourites – a three night stay in – Guest house Madona in Falkovets village. A simple guest house filled with Bulgarian history and memorabilia.
