Days 190 to 191 18 and 19th October 2018
After our rather complicated and stressful exit from Slovenia we were fortunately still able to arrive in Sofia on our scheduled flight. It was to be a day where minor hiccups continued. Standing in the immigration queue after choosing the most promising line – we got to the window to discover one side was EU passport holders only – of course it was the one we were in. No concessions, it was back to the end of the queue beside us. Despite being the last out, bar the cleaner there was a smiling Nadia waiting and thinking maybe we had not arrived.
While only a short drive to our first stop the drive gave us time to calm ourselves. We kept saying let it go but we found ourselves going back to the shock of discovering our Schengen overstay (as we left Slovenia). It also gave time to catch up on what Nadia had been up to in the year since we had last toured together in 2018.
Our first night of three, was at the the Hotel Bozhilovo, A hotel high on the mountain top overlooking the autumn filled valley below, part of Zasele Village in the Balkan Mountains. Our day of hiccups was not quite over as we found ourselves on a Google map special – a road, barely a road, with sharp impossible turns. Eventually we became unable to move forward or back, even with a bit of a push from us. A phone call to the hotel brought a man in a 4WD, cigarette in mouth, competence written all over his quick check of the situation. Within minutes we were towed unceremoniously out and on the right road that lead very quickly to the hotel.
19.10.2018
After a quiet night’s quiet sleep and beautiful sunrise followed by a delicious traditional breakfast we were ready for a day exploring the Iskar Valley.
Every day we commented that this tour was perfectly, wonderfully, custom-made to suit us. Including the daily routine – Breakfast at 9am, Leave at 10am – every wonderful day.
Our first stop was Vazov’s Trail to the Skaklya waterfall. So called because it was said to be Ivan Vasov’s favourite trail. Ivan Vasov was, and is, a well-known and beloved Bulgarian poet and advocate for nature. A steep trail to the bottom of one of the highest waterfalls in Bulgaria.
Nearing the end of summer the fall was long with a small stream of water tumbling down the rock face. Highlighted by the green moss and plants along its route. The walk down (trying not to think about the walk back up!) was filled with views of the mountains through the forest. Limestone cliff faces gleaming white amongst the autumn leaves. And quiet peace.We were alone on the trail apart from a group of workmen at the top.
It was an ongoing joke – “only a little up then horizontal” trusty guide says “Yeah right!” replies Chris in his most skeptical tone. It rarely was a “little up”.
At the top of the hill were 2 tiny figures hanging from a tree branch, with red and white bracelets nearby. The latter known as Martenitsa – bracelets worn until the trees begin to blossom and then hung on that tree. The tiny figures also red and white are Pizho and Penda – male and female figures. Both are symbols of coming Spring and fertility.
Lunch time and we headed for the town of Svoge – a small town with a large rail connection in the midst and a huge town square. The town is most famous for Svoge Chocolate – of course we had to have some.
Lunch was a reminder of the fantastic array of fresh food deliciously served at very reasonable prices with a nice pint of Bulgarian beer. Soleil Restaurant had a pleasant covered outdoor seating area where we feasted on a grill plate, Shopska salad and other Bulgarian delights while watching American cooking shows on the TV.
After lunch it was a short drive up the mountains to a hilltop complex with a huge stone statue that captured our hearts. Chris remains touched by the story of ‘Grandpa Yotso is Looking’ – the man in the evocative statue. Again there are several wonderful stories of which I am providing not even a precis – one that he is looking for the train coming through as a sign of progress and independence. One that even though he has become blind he is still looking for the return of his grandchildren who have left the village on the train – a symbol of the growth and independence of Bulgaria. Both relate back to the long fight for liberation and the eventual independence of Bulgaria.
Coffee overlooking the valley and Grandpa Yotso. Followed by a visit to the Monastery Sedemte Prestola or Monastery of The Seven Thrones – architecture of the Bulgarian Revival era. The name having a number of legends of how it came to be. One is that it was built by 7 Bulgarian nobles each building a small chapel representing themselves. The real story is no longer known.
The building seemed to be in the middle of a winding road between mountains, it was smaller than I was expecting – appearing almost like a guest house or hotel. Whitewashed walls with dark wood trim, boxes of brightly coloured geraniums lent colour to the building.
The church had the seven small chapels along the sides with whitewashed curved walls and doorways, Each chapel with a different alter including one with the Saints of Cyrillics represented – the seven saints of Cyrillics including Cyril and Methodium and their 5 disciples who together developed the basis of modern Cyrillics.
We were the only visitors in the quiet and peaceful surrounds. I was surprised by the icons propped on various surfaces, seemingly precious yet everyday items.
Afterwards we continued along the winding road, following signs to a small farm along a narrow road along the river valley floor. Just as we were about to turn back we came to an almost abandoned village with large abandoned farm buildings from the Communist era. Here was a small farm with wonder of wonders 2 Llamas, 2 Ostriches, and other domestic animals including an array of hens of differing variety. All cared for by an ageing man who freely let us wander around.
In the evening another example of our perfectly planned and guided trip – our tasting meal was a selection of Bulgarian specialities along with superb Bulgarian red wine.
