Day 104 July 4th 2018 North Iceland
It was unanimously agreed today was one of the best. Not the prettiest. Not the most fun. But the experience that felt the most remote and Icelandic! And the closest to the Arctic Circle. The weather befitted the land – bleak, seemingly inhospitable with rain and icy winds. And this was summer!
As we headed north, passing Asbyrgi and places already visited, the road became more remote, the landscape flat and flatter. Unlike the mountains and glaciers of the south I found a beauty in the plains – flat as far as you could see – moss covered lava fields with wild flowers scattered throughout. Melrakkaslétta plain peninsula a drive through miles and miles and miles of flat,flat,flat lava covered land with isolated houses dotted throughout.
Heading north, a turn-off indicated a protected park of some kind diverting us from the ‘main’ road to have a look. We later discovered our diversion was to the Rauðinúpur Cape.
The long gravel road passed through a gated bird area with Arctic Terns protecting their nests by bombing the car. The road ended at a farm. Rogue logs of timber had been collected and stacked along the coast and throughout the farm. I was heartened as it seemed finally a place was using the logs that had floated in from the former USSR (apparently in Iceland they eventually arrive from Siberia!). Yet it was so remote and lonely in its isolation.
Fortunately, the attack of the Arctic Terns was mainly while in the car, not at us once we were walking. Head protection was not needed this time.
The day was bleak, windy and seemed appropriate to our surrounds. Not so conducive to walking. We walked along the sea front within view of the stacks and decided it was enough. The foreshore was piled with large rocks and behind the rocks and washed up logs scattered along the length of the foreshore in the distance birds galore on the rocks. As we slowly travelled back to the main road Arctic Terns surrounded the car while other birds continued on with birdy life around us.
Continuing we came to the Hraunhafnartangi lighthouse. We had established this would set us closest to the Arctic Circle. The co-ordinates were 66° 32′ 9.6″ N, 16° 1′ 31.08″ W, Not imagining it still required a drive along a narrow rocky road, followed by a blustery, cold walk along the path strewn with likely flotsam and jetsam – crying out for rescue and use were acres of nets, floats, lines, random fabric.
And finally with icy wind gusting around us we reached the Lighthouse but no – we need to go further – to the furthermost point. So cold, wind ridden, we climb over huge boulders to get to the sea – the closest point to the Arctic circle. Then time for photos and back to the shelter of the lighthouse.
As we wandered we had seen a rock formation in the distance, on closer inspection this seemed to be an ancient structure of rocks – but what? Later research showed it was apparently a burial mound of a Viking warrior. Like all sagas this one is of course gruesome and tells of the battle, death and burial of Þorgeirr Hávarsson.
Þorgeirsdys Burial Mound is mentioned in the Saga of Sworn-Brothers (Fóstbræðrasaga), where one can read about the sleighing of Þorgeir Hávarsson. He defended himself bravely and killed 14 of his enemies. The burial mound (a huge heap of stones) is said to be the burial mound of Þorgeir, i.e. his torso is buried here, as he was beheaded and his enemy carried with him his head to Eyjafjörður fjord as a proof of his victory over Þorgeir. The other victims of this gruesome battle are also buried in this burial mound.
Our next destination was the topic of an elaborate brochure – Arctic Henge. Before visiting this sculpture we were hungry and the weather was not conducive to a picnic table in a scenic location. We had read about delicious fish and chips in Raufarhöfn, one of the most remote and northernmost villages in Iceland. On arrival it was easy to spot the restaurant complete with stuffed Arctic Fox and Polar Bear – but Oh Dear – not fish and chips till 6pm!
Hunger moved us on but despite having our picnic aboard the weather procluded stopping and a lack of spots to picnic ensured we kept moving.
An elaborate brochure in a Tourist Info Office had lead us to Arctic Henge (Heimskautsgerðið) a sculpture being built, described as monument to Pagan beliefs, a modern sundial. An important structure. The structure is impressive – massive stones set atop each other. A central piece that will have a huge crystal reflecting light. 4 stone gates reflecting the seasons.
On the way back we searched again for another secret – the “cheese box” hot pools. Oh we supersleuths – we found them. Feeling a little guilty at taking a secret pleasure from local Husavikians we did enjoy the small hot tubs atop of the hill at the end of a cold windy day.
