Day 212 – 213 10th – 11th November 2018
Despite being very happy in our little Lerwick home we were both looking forward to get to our final destination – a cosy Crofters cottage in the small southern village of Levenwick.
On the way a stop at the local Coop grocery for a weeks supply of meals. And a stop at Blydoits the highly recommended local fishmonger. All fresh as I quickly discovered when I asked which fish was local. In a strong Scottish brogue I was told it was “All landed here on the pier”. Every piece -absolutely flavourful and mouth-watering we were to find out.
Finally we arrived – a small whitewashed stone cottage on the hill overlooking the bay at Levenwick. Inside everything we needed for a wonderful week including a supply of treats!
Settling in and warming up our home were the first priorities followed by unpacking the seemingly oversupply of food we have bought into the tiny galley kitchen. It all fitted!
Another Word Play event – A.C. Grayling discussing his new book Democracy and Its Crisis followed by a drive home in the rain and wind with warm discussion in the car shortening the journey. I had not been sure I would leave our cosy cottage for this event. Glad I did. An entertaining and amazing hour as A.C. Grayling with humour and knowledge spun us through Democracy and its problems from Plato and Socrates to current day – in particular ‘Brexit’.
As we got ready for bed the wind whooped and whined around the cottage but the bed was a forgetter of all weather – a lush puff of a doona with a lush yummy bed. I did give thought to the women and families in the early days, in the original cottages without heating, with draughty cracks and windows and little furniture and bedding.
The morning was bleak and wonderful. Rain pelting the windows and all but obliterating the view. Just the excuse needed for reading in bed for the morning as we waited for the water to heat for showers and the central heating to take the chill of the house. With a peat fire later in the day to look and feel completely cosy.
Eventually the weather cleared to a crisp, almost clear day suggesting walk time. Our walk seemed to coincide with others in the village so it was also a chatty time. Heading down the hill towards the beach the sky behind us was turning many shades of early sunset – pinks and yellows firing across the hills. We passed the sign pointing to “Uppertown” and on down the hill – no Lowertown was found but the beach was ahead.
The beach lay past a posse of small whitewashed cottages. A small bay with a full tide curving around. Above the beach a large mound with a graveyard crowning the top.
As we stood watching the water I remembered that the graveyard is thought to be atop an ancient Viking site – possibly ship possibly burial. Closer view showed the unusual hillock on which the graveyard was perched could be buried past.
The graveyard itself was signed as a Commonwealth Graveyard which at its centre had a memorial to those from the village who died in the first World War surrounded by the headstones of local folk.
With the sun setting behind the hills it seemed time to get back home where it was again a surprise to see it was only 4pm.
Dinner was the mussels and fresh Haddock from Blydoits in a cheats Paella – made with what was at hand and absolutely a taste sensation.
What a perfect day.
