Day 83 Pictou and Baddeck Friday, July 10 2015
By Mel
As we set out for Baddeck, we first stop in Pictou to visit the Hector.
Both of us were struck by the history woven into this little ship. It travelled from Scotland to Nova Scotia with 179 people on board. The ship and passengers holding much in common – ill prepared for the journey and uncertainty of what was ahead, a long way from home.
The Hector and museum alongside provides much information and raising many questions. Why did the Captain agree to sail an old almost out of time boat to Nova Scotia? Why did a Smallpox outbreak kill only 18 people in this overcrowded little ship?
The ship itself was endearing – small, beautifully reconstructed by a dedicated bunch – including Anne, our guide, and her husband Keith.
Keith added extra colour and joy by meeting us at the Hector kilted up and playing the bagpipes. It should be noted one passenger on the original journey was there at the behest of passengers and his role was Piper. To play to keep spirits up.
Keith was also the ships carver.
The small museum staffed by volunteers sits alongside the ship. It gives an introduction to the history and life aboard the Hector. Splendidly displaying tartan from each clan onboard around the multilevel entry foyer.
Chris and I have had many discussions about the voyage. Chris interested in the political environment that lead to it – including Culloden, John Witherspoon, (a Scot who emigrated to the USA), and the land grant conditions in Nova Scotia. Me on the personal – how did families survive – one family to a bed, disease, hygiene, babies.
We differed in our views of the Captain John Spiers – was he a bad person or a person who had no choice?
On to Cape Breton Island and the town of Baddeck. The Alexander
Graham Bell National Historic Site. Dedicated as the title suggests to the life of Alexander Graham Bell. The imagination, creativity and output of this amazing man was beyond what both of us knew.
Prior to the visit I was a) not terribly excited at the thought and b) thought – ‘invented the telephone’. I had not heard of the breadth of his work including creating a language for people who are deaf to communicate. Building one of the first flight machines The Silver Dart’.
Again as with Dr William Grenfell I was also interested in his wife. Again a woman who achieved much both in supporting her husbands achievements and much of her own. Mabel Bell (Gardiner Hubbard) a woman credited with supporting and being a major influence in his life. In part the reason for his working on deaf communication as Mabel had a hearing loss.
Rather than twiddling my thumbs with boredom as I had imagined, while Chris viewed all the machinery – we both spent extensive time in the museum. Fortunately with nooks and crannies throughout to sit and take a break.
Night-time bed was The Silver Dart Lodge a 2 night stay Yippee – unpack the packs into drawers and pretend it’s a long term thing!
