Istanbul by land and Sea

Istanbul by land and sea Day 77 July 15^th, 2019

We left Georgia as we had entered – in a black Mercedes. We arrived in Istanbul as we had arrived earlier – through the chaotically busy airport. Thankfully we had organized Kiwi Taxis and their staff lead us from exit gate to a waiting cab amidst the raucous passage of taxis, buses, cars, and people.

Oh and the black Mercedes – not so special it seemed to us that Georgia’s carpool consisted of black Mercedes and Toyota Prius of every hue produced.

Thankful for a serious Istanbul landmark to find our accommodation. Our instructions were simple – come to Galata Tower and wait by the Lavazza coffee shop. Done.

Our little Galata Airbnb apartment was barely a blink from the tower. Excited by our surroundings, eager to explore despite the late-night hour. We asked our host the usual questions – “What is the Wifi password.” ” Where is the washing machine?” and we were alone.

The area was still alive with people and the lit tower formed a focus for photographers and posers, keen to catch the night shot. Our priority was a pleasant beer easily found in the comfortable Tower Pub, where I could not keep my eyes from wandering to a father and son’s excruciating conversation playing out below a large screen TV silently screening “Scarface”.

The next morning breakfast and train tickets to Bucharest were priorities. The first was decided on one of our host’s recommendations Van Kahvalti Evi . This took a tense this way and that way-ing as the GPS appeared to struggle with the route. Our theory was that this may be confounded by the Tower – or was it us?

Without dinner last night, and already a late breakfast I was about to deliver a hungry tantrum that would go something like “I will eat anything just find something!” When we found Van Kahvaltı Evi, – the reward was the best Menemen I can remember. Something full and buttery about it. A small plate of Kaymak and comb honey, technically part of Chris’s breakfast was irresistible. The creamy, fatty, delicious Kaymak contrasted with the scented comb, honey. I may have had more than my share.

Now refuelled, a short walk brought us to the Tram station where a combination of taking time and watching fellow travellers, Chris figured the ticket top-up system. A system that worked well for travellers – we could share 1 card – click each of us into any station through the turnstile, with free exit at journey’s end. Simple, easy. None of the aggressive approach from the staff we are used to in Melbourne. Even when I entered the wrong way I was re-directed with a smile.

Once at Sirkeci train station we followed the instructions of our train travel Guru Seat61. Straight to Counter 4 where we purchased our couchette tickets without any of the disasters we had foreseen. A last-minute negotiation saw us downgrade from purchasing 4 berths to taking our chances with 2 roomies.

Tram back to Karakoy to our Galata tower home, weaving our way through the myriad of selfie-takers and Instagrammers. This proved endless entertainment watching the posing, the quick turn on turn off smiles, the pretend walking, the outstretched handhold. All this went with the indignation of fellow posers, and lack of awareness that traffic was struggling to pass down the road.

Another treasure hunt, and we finally found the recommended Galata Kitchen. Pleased we had persevered for our late lunch. Beginning with a mezze selection the counter was filled with possibilities – fraught with choice. Happily, we let the staff choose and with a red for me and white wine for him we had perfection.

Our main game today was a cruise on the Bosphorous. We had cancelled this last visit because I was sick. Despite a ‘no refund’ cancellation policy Bosphorous Tours offered to reschedule.

Let me jump to the end and then come back to the tour itself. We shared the boat with a small number of people one group (unfortunately Australians -from Sydney I hasten to add) put insistent pressure on the captain, guide and crew that they were bored and cold and wanted to return early. Which we did – not happily on my part! This group also made the job of the guide difficult with a level of noise and a lack of attention that competed with the commentary.

Grumble over! The tour came with a guide giving commentary, a waiter serving snacks and a Captain who seemed to know every skipper on the water. It was the night of a blood moon which added to the romance of Istanbul by sea.

Our guide added to our knowledge of Istanbul and its history. With Chris’s newfound passion for sharing writing there is now pressure on to take notes! Previously it was a more fluid memory kind of writing on my part. So today I took notes and here is some of the extraordinary facts I took in:

There are around 85,000 Mosques in Turkey and around 3,500 in Istanbul

The population of Turkey is an inconceivable (to a down-under mind) 80,000,000. Istanbul is home to about 20,000,000 people

The Bosphorous is a vital waterway, then and now. A natural deep waterway formed by an earthquake ??? years ago

The city has a long and ancient history dating back 2,800 years. A strategic and important city and port which saw Empires compete for the jewel. Seeing the Byzantine, Roman, Persian, Ottoman empires creating a rich architectural and cultural city.

The Maiden’s Tower (Leander’s Tower) – a mid-Bosphorous tower with an ancient legend and modern lifestyle. The latter being a restaurant at its top accessed by boat from the shoreline – with a dress code for attendance. The ancient being it was a lighthouse, a control point for ships (and payment of taxes). And the legends that tell of Love, Bravery, Protection.

Oh damm! I can not seem to verify this story, that goes like this: A piece of sea-side real estate owned by Egypt (now accommodating the Egyptian consulate) became so from a thwarted Pasha. Fatima – a Pasha in her own right was thwarted by the ruling Empire in Turkey, stripped of her title. In response, she donated the land to Egypt, instead of Turkey and so it remains.

The Hagia Sofia now a world-famous icon – began life as an East Roman Empire church. Hence some of its differences to other Mosque structures. The Ottoman Empire brought Islam to Turkey and converted the Church to a Mosque.

All this brain fodder permeates, while floating along the water, as daylight became sunset, and sunset became nightfall. Sailing along a shoreline lined with the ancient and the modern – buildings of all ages, styles, and colours each adding to the beauty and romance.

On one hill – houses with deep red colour, popping out from green forested hills were unusual – cameras could not help clicking.