Chalaadi Glacier, Tetnuldi, Ushba. Svaneti Region. Georgia. Day 70. July 8th 2019
Sitting in our cosy cottage with a loud cracking thunderstorm going on about us we congratulate ourselves on the incredible timing of the weather. Nothing to do with us of course but like much else in our life if feels incredibly lucky. And today was another lucky and amazing day.
Take today – we get up to find a pristine blue sky with a few misty clouds over the mountains. We set off to our drop off point for the walk to the base of Chalaadi Glacier. In our comfy 4WD the road in seems long and dusty and we are thankful we do not have to walk it before the Glacier track begins, I am more thankful as we pass groups of hot and bothered looking hikers trekking along the gravel road through billowing dust.
We begin the walk over a bridge crossing the green icy looking glacial river pounding underneath us. Chris was surprised to see a young woman in thongs until we realised she was part of a group of rock climbers setting up cliffside, beside the river.
The walk was varied – through fir forest, along side the roiling river, up and down stony passes until the glacier suddenly came into view.
Mt Ushba seems to pop up at each vantage point over the past few days and today he is there again. Yes – in Georgian legend he is the man and Tenhuldi ( the mountain we visit in the afternoon) is the woman. – and the short story legend – forbidden love they turned to mountains so they forever faced each other.
We opted to walk to the base of the climb up to the Glacier. Stopping where the river began and the shale and rock leading to the glacier became more treacherous to walk on. It appeared the spot for older legs to stop and younger legs to continue! From our vantage point we had a great view of the Glacier curving down the mountain, an ice cave visible on the side.
After our morning amble we headed for Tetnuldi Mountain where the plan was to take the ski lift up the mountain. All was still and quiet – it was not running. No – we did not walk – shame on us. We were driven up the mountain, again passing hikers of all paces, many redfaced and trudging up the looooooong 7km hill.
Everywhere we hiked there was a profusion of wild flowers. Growing in the most barren and unexpected places. Providing Instagram moments for many and moments of happiness as you came across a field of swaying colour.
At the top while we managed to feel some guilt at our easy passage up the mountain. We appreciated the clear view of the Chalaadi Glacier along with a previously hidden glacier beside it. We were surrounded by mountains some snow capped, some rocky gnarly cliffs.
The view provided an excellent accompaniement for lunch. Out came the lunch boxes and the thermos while gazing over the mountains and glaciers.
As we headed down we were flagged down by a group of young hikers wanting directions to a village they were heading for. They had already walked up most of the 7km hill and the young woman was saying she had nothing left in her legs. They were disbelieving and crestfallen when our guide gave redirections which including returning down the mountain and taking another road. Despite having this confirmed by our guide, her friend a mountaineer and a man in a van travelling down the mountain – we left them in a cluster looking at there maps trying to will the village to be nearby. Sympathy for them as Katerina estimated it would be a 5hr walk to their destination.
