Khiva, Uzbekistan. Day 42 June 10th 2019
A mix-it-up kind of reporting – learning so much on the tour it did not all seem to fit yesterday the rest is covered here along with the ‘free time’ we had planned in.
Our day tour yesterday continued after lunch. A lunch where we fell for the little trap we had read about – no menu, no prices. lovely staff. Oh yes we will have this and that. Lovely setting in a cool tree covered courtyard, lovely server who look after us well. Chris had seen a young woman across from us become distressed over the bill. When ours came we could see why – easily the most expensive of anything we had in Uzbekistan for what we had. Not an issue for us – it was about the same as Australian prices, but it did remind us to check.
A museum housed a Mint displaying hammered coins which reflected the changing empires – portraits of changing rulers on the coins. For me I was fascinated by a display of beautiful silk notes from early 1920s during the Russian era.
For Chris it was a door from the house of Pahlavan Makmud. The door intricately carved with a floral pattern and what appears to be an Arabic script.
Both of us were drawn to the heavy wedding jewellery rich with declarations of wealth. The keys at the base of the necklace showing how many locked jewel boxes a bride had,
Juma Mosque “it is so peaceful and meditative in here” I comment – “Yes like a silent forest” replies Iness. Yes it is – with 213 individually carved wooden pillars supporting the space it is like a silent forest.
This mosque was special and affected me so that I returned the following day to spend time sitting and contemplating there. Pillars of all eras – each different. The cool quiet space.
This is the oldest mosque in Khiva – since the 10th century and now no longer operating. This was the summer mosque – open and designed to circulate the cool air. A winter mosque was built outside the eastern gate and remains operational today.
Tash Khauli palace is highly decorated with ceramic tiling, carved stone and painted wood. An alternative to the Kunya Ark it was also built by Alloquli Khan, It has a large number of rooms and courtyards.
Around courtyard number three, of the Tash Khauli Palace is the Harem. A long stone internal passage leads along the back of the rooms of the Harem to the Kings quarters. The Harem built around a large central courtyard had the large bedrooms for the King and his 4 wives along one wall, then family and finally many smaller rooms for the concubines over two levels on the opposite wall. Behind the rooms ran a long corridor that enabled the chosen woman to access the Kings bedroom discreetly.
It was a rare legend we hear that involved a woman. Unfortunately this involved war and bloodshed. After battle Queen Tomyris ordered the head be cut off the dead Kira’s (Cyrus) body. It was then dipped in blood, placed in a bag filled with blood and sent back to his people.
The man of whom the Strongman contest had been named, he was a wrestler. A significant figure in history. A poet. The mausoleum is the site of pilgramage – with many visitors coming to pray and pay homage. Pahklavan Makhmud’s mausoleum was built in 1810. Inside a quiet space tiled in the typical Khiva style throughout. Outside a series of domes with tombs surrounding the entrance.
The end of the day was a visit to an amazing exhibition of the photographs of Khudaybergen Devanov. An incredible story that included a Mennonite family from Germany and the Khan of Khiva.
Detailed black and white photograph from the collection of Devanov showing workers in traditional dress.
An evocative photograph by Devanov of workers in their traditional dress.
Another small museum visited was the fine arts museum that included the works of Khiva surreal artist Rafael Davletshin who had donated his work along with his estate. The latter was to cover the cost of framing his works.
A city wall walk included venturing outside the wall – a strange feeling after being coddled within the huge walls. The walk along the top of the wall included a view down upon our guesthouse. A careful experience walking the walls with no fencing or protection between the wall and the ground below.
for our final night – dinner at the Terrassa Restaurant a favourite of ours while in Khiva. A clear blue skied night that deepened with the sunset. A perfect ending to a perfect stay.
View of Khiva from the Terrasso Restaurant,.
