Iran, Yazd. Day 244 October 5th 2017
The simple act of waking up in our room, in the caravanserai, in the Persian desert, – seemed an epic act for us yet everyday living for those around us. The history and traditions of thousands of years surround us.
Outside the breakfast spread was being prepared, and daily chores had already begun. As we emerged a breakfast feast was laid out before us on the handmade table and chairs in the courtyard. The earthy colours of the buildings and desert all around us. Sharing food and company with no common language – communication persisted despite the lack of words.
Breakfast finished we were ready for our journey to Yazd. Setting off with high expectations – the praise for this desert town was endless. Despite not having a common language our gentle, careful, driver looked after us, ensured we saw the sights along the way and ensured we were well looked after.
The history of desert stays continued as we stopped at the site of a traditional Caravanserai. This original building in the desert now converted into a beautiful modern-day hotel Zein-O-Din . Authentic decorations, curved interior walls, warm earthy colours. The internal courtyard surrounded by rooms with large arched doors around the outer circle. Accommodation for all budgets including dormitory rooms curtained off along a narrow corridor. Greenery provided a cooling effect inside, while the view from the roof reminded of the desert stretching out on all sides.
Easy to imagine the delight it would have been to drive your camels into this accommodation after the long desert trek.
Arriving in Yazd at to our intended hotel (which looked fabulous) – no booking. With charades, our driver, and a patient, friendly hotelier – we discovered our booking was at another hotel. Disappointed we returned to the car and our driver kindly took us on to the other side of town and there to our correct hotel.
At first, our disappointment continued. It seemed a little obscure – out of the town and down a tiny laneway. The welcome was not quite the friendly approach we had become used to.
Once inside the appeal was instant – all rooms facing a covered courtyard complete with exotic birds flying around the central garden. In the corner an endless Samovar with delicious Iranian tea. Lush greenery in every possible spot. This was the beautiful traditional style guesthouse Naranjestan Traditional House, which Yazd is famous for.
Our large room was through double doors off the courtyard. The beds with traditional throws and local art and craftwork throughout. Our bathroom seemed to be a throne room! Up a step into a spotless white bathroom with a sit-on toilet. Our definition of luxury!
A quick regroup and on our own again we begin our exploration of Yazd. The old part of Yazd is almost entirely adobe mud-brick – buildings, tunnels, walls. Rising above the curves of street-level are another Yazd claim to fame – the wind catchers – towers providing natural cooling – the ancient Persian answer to air conditioning.
Another adaption to desert life was the building of Qanats – underground canals distributing the water throughout the city via the canals using gravity. A visit to the Yazd Water Museum provided demonstrations of the workings of the Qanats. The museum is housed in a house that still has remnants of the Qanat system. Dug over 2000 years ago the canal that fed the house had been an incredible 75km long.
Throughout the rooms were displays of implements from the building of the canals along with photos of the diggers – who would descend on ropes and dig by hand. Remnants in the basement of the house demonstrated how water had come into the house and then collected in pools to be used throughout the house.
As darkness fell on our first night in Yazd we wandered into the old town, dominated by the magnificent Jame (Friday) Mosque. Blue dominating inside and out. The pair of minarets towering over the mosque – the tallest minarets in Iran. Breathtaking whenever you see it – daylight, night light, sunset.
As we continued to wander and find architectural treasures throughout Yazd we also found dinner at a rooftop restaurant. A magical spot making the most of a view of the Mosque and the wind catchers that dominate the Yazd skyline. A view to make you pinch yourself and say “We are in Yazd. We are in Iran. We are travelling all by ourselves in Yazd in Iran.”
