Piran, Slovenia Days 175 – 177 October 3rd to 5th 2018
Piran Perfect Piran. It seems every time we move on to a new place, it becomes another place we want to stay longer. Another place we want to return to. Piran – already checking out the real estate.
A compact town that from above looks like a profusion of terracotta tiles and a myriad of archictectural styles squashed between the sea and city walls.
This town, like others in the region has seen a range of “take-over bids” – the Venetians, Austro-Hungarians, Italians, Yugoslavs and now it is Slovenian. Each era has left its mark on the architecture, food, design.
We arrived into the city square bounded by the marina, the city hall buildings and shops with a profusion of restaurants. Picking one for lunch we congratulated ourselves on a brilliant choice – La Bottega Dei Sapori a delicate mushroom pasta and fusilli with prawns for Chris. With superb Slovenian wine and perfect service. Despite my rarely wanting to return to a restaurant preferring the new and unexplored this would be an exception.
Found our apartment perfectly situation right behind the square in on of the many narrow stone laneways. Spent an afternoon getting lost and found in the myriad of small streets and squares.
Dinner hole in the wall fish shop Fritolini a Cantini tucked away in a small square off the waterfront. Order and wait for the fish that corresponds to the tag you are given to be hung outside the window. Then eat the succulent super-fresh fish on a huge seafood platter. Struck up conversation with a young American couple with an Australian link we shared one of the long bench tables with.
4th October
Began the day with a walk up to the city wall the thick stone walls once providing defense and protection – now a great place to get a view of the town and peninsula gaining a perspective lost in the narrow laneways.
While the visuals were amazing it was a day for meeting and chatting. On the highest point of the city wall overlooking a pristine blue ocean we met an English couple and shared travel tips. As we wandered back to town and into a gallery – we met Sofia who gave us an extensive list of places, eateries, life, art and music. Including reintroducing us to Tom Waits Tom Traubert’s Blues
Galerija Herman Pečarič sat on the Marina the building renovated to appear sailboat like complimenting the (temporary) exhibition of boat models by Luciano Kebr in the downstairs gallery. The upstairs floors housed the work of Piran artist Herman Pečarič
Described on the gallery website: “The renovated building of the old dressmaker from the time of the transition from the 19th to the 20th centuries stores a collection of paintings, drawings and graphics of the Piran artist Herman Pečarič (1908-1981), which he left to the City of Piran. In the Slovene art space, he is recognized as a painter of Istrian motifs in a modern, realistic style. The permanent layout represents a quality overview of artist’s creativity from the earliest beginnings to the last years of his work. On the ground floor of the gallery are also occasional exhibitions, art workshops, literary gatherings.” Coastal Galleries Piran Herman Pečarič
On Sofia’s recommendation we had lunch at Pri Mari – where we shared a platterfilled with local delicacies. Too many great eateries – too little time!
After lunch wandering back through tiny lanes with rows of multi-coloured, multi-storied houses lining and shutting out light we found a little jewellery shop with locally made earrings. My Piran souveneir.
The sea was stormy as we arrived at our sunset cocktail spot. Aperol Spritz with pounding sea – an exciting aperitif,
5th October
Friendly and helpful assistance from Luma Sport to get a bike to fit me and lots of information on riding from Piran to Izola. Excellent service with a laugh or two thrown in. Well omitting the long hills along the way but maybe best not to have prior knowledge. Next time – Electric bikes!
The ride began along the waterfront with clear bright blue sea and clear bright blue sky highlighting the boats sailing the harbour. Through the more populace overblown tourist town of Potoroz where we encountered a few navigational hiccups before finding the turn off to head up the hill.
Up the hill and through a long tunnel and out through the farm fields and vineyards along well made paths until the top of the hill overlooking Izola. Down we went into the town of Izola– larger but similar to Piran.
Waterfront seemed the place to find a spot for lunch and what a spot it was. Gostilna Sidro – a covered outdoor restaurant beside the seaside with fun staff. Fresh seafood and a little Slovenian beer to help the digestion!
The ride back was a little more challenging with a few wrong turns and a few long hills. The countryside despite the push uphill green with sea views never far away. The final stretch a long rhythmic bumping along the seawall path with a final climb to the city wall of Pirin.
Stopping at the top of Pirin for a breather we chatted to a man curious about where we were from and what we were doing. In conversation we discovered he was performing in a concert that evening – a couple of hours after our conversation. With brief instructions on where – we decided to give it a go.
Another great decision – the concert was in the Chiesa di San Georgio. The piece was “Magnificat” by Andre Waignein. The music and choir enhanced by the heavy Baroque surrounds of the church.
The conductor Aljoša Tavčar and Soprano Monica Cesar were well known in Europe. Performing with a combined choirs and orchestra: Orfeao Edmundo Machado de Oliveira; Nuovo Auricorale Vivavoce; and Pihalni Orkester Ricmanje.
We stayed to thank our musician and recommender who seemed genuinely delighted to see us there.
What a night for the senses – topped off by a moonlit walk back through the quiet softly lit streets to our home for the final night. Tomorrow Ljubljana.
