Greve in Chianti. Tuscany, Italy Days 151 to 157 September 9th to 15th 2018
Chianti Sculpture ParkLiving a movie script: Tuscany with friends. Travelling the Chianti countryside. Road trip Florence to Florence.
Greve was to be home for our week in Tuscany.
It began in Florence meeting our friends-in-decadence for an evening in Florence. Dinner followed by a late night wander through the floodlit square, dominated by the Duomo. Quieter in the late evening and looking like a charcoal drawing of lines in the floodlit night.
Our bed for the night was in Maison Bianco B & B close to the station, simple, friendly staff and a lovely stay.
The bus ride from Florence to Greve left Florence across the river and out through small ancient towns, rows of vineyards and rolling hills.
Entertained by people in animated conversations on and off the bus, in a language that sounds excited and emotion filled yet not understandable to our mono-language brains. Stops along the way with no evidence of habitation around yet villages hid within the lush bush and vineyards. Suddenly we were in Greve and scrambled off the bus.
First stop – Yup of course – the Tourist information office, where a very helpful young woman gave us great info of the area, transport tips and lunch recommendations.
Our friends were arriving by car so while waiting we decided on lunch. Choosing Gallo Nero and indulged in an antipasto platter along with a superb pasta to follow. Accompanied by Chianti of course. As we finished the rest of the group arrived and Jacky discovered Master Chef Australia had been filmed in this very restaurant.
What a treat for all when we arrived at our apartment for the week – La Veronica Resort set on a hill amongst gardens and vineyards on the edge of Greve. Picture postcard. Quintessential Tuscany – and any superlatives you could throw at it.
We had a large well equipped farmhouse kitchen where beautifully presented antipasto was produced each evening followed by delicious meals under Jacky’s watchful eye. All accompanied by a range of local wines tried over the week.
Our villa was surrounded by outdoor spaces with views of the valley from all sides. Extravangantly because we could we chose a breakfast corner with morning mist and sun, an evening pre dinner drink spot overlooking the valley as the sun set. And a dinner spot near our villa in a vine covered outdoor dining area.
Villa views
While in Greve it seemed essential to focus on the wines and food of the region. The village square was surrounded by food stores of all kinds and the nearby Le Cantine di Greve in Chianti a perfect spot to select our wine.
On our first evening we joined a wine tour with visit to the wine museum to set us up. The wine museum was being restored after flooding much had been lost but it was still filled with wine memorabilia.
Le Cantine di Greve became our go to place. Knowledgeable staff with a sense of humour and ability to recommend good not just expensive wine. After a few tastings we selected the wine for that night’s dinner – a habit we continued throughout the week.
Over 140 wines were displayed around the walls and interior of the vault. A wine card and glass could be purchased that enabled help-yourself tastings. Wines of various varieties, prices, and qualities. Written descriptions are available but also staff happy to add knowledge and make recommendations. Our week featured the local Chianti Classico, Chianti Riserva, Super Tuscans along with other recommendations.
Our days were spent exploring Greve and surrounds – the food, the wine, the villages. And for us a rest day in the middle enjoying the beautiful surrounds of our villa.
The villages were a mass of cobbled streets, stone buildings crowding tiny lanes, ancient churches, tiny shops and restaurants.
Greve itself is centred around a large square bounded by shops covered with a portico. At the centre of the square a large bronze statue and at one end an ancient church. A standout shop was the butcher / deli Antica Macelleria Falorni along one side. The ceiling hung with meats drying, small stone cellars filled with wheels of cheese and a huge range of delectable waiting to be taken home.
Writing this with too much time between the memories are blurred and names escape. We did visit a number of villages in the area, joined a wine tour through a magnificent and very Tuscan-like villa on a hilltop and we visited wineries, olive oil producers and Deli’s wherever we could.
Some memories that are clearer include visits to:
Montefioralle a favourite was this tiny village. Our visited included a very Italian lunch at Il Guerrino a historical trattoria. The entry was a dark hallway with steps leading into the restaurant then opening out onto a vine covered balcony.
Panzano
Close to Greve and built on a hill it we visited a day before the annual wine festival. We had intended to return for it however the festival was not through the town as we thought but in a small separate market.
We began our wander through Panzano with coffee – a tiny café discovered as we walked up towards the church atop the hill. Following a sign we found a tiny dark coffee shop that opened out onto patio overlooking the valley. The coffee was perfection.
On our second visit to Panzano we lunched at the fun Cantinetta Sassolini staff were quick with humour both with each other and us. Food as always Italian superb.
Wine Tour was a little early for tasting but a beautiful villa and surrounds. The generations of family running the winery had also built a beautiful art collection also on display through the complex.
The Chianti Sculpture Park – Sculptures not only set in the nature landscape but designed for this specific landscape. International works – all with very different interpretations of the space.
Our final adventure – a long story shortened – we met a young woman who had had a fall and encouraged her to attend hospital. I offered to accompany her with Tony driving and Jacky as moral support. The nearest hospital was Ospedale Santa Maria Annunziata, Via dell’Antella,in Bagno a Ripoli
About half hour drive from Greve it gave us opportunity to visit a new town. For me visiting a hospital in another country always appealing. Accident and Emergency was busy so waiting times were lengthy. This gave me time to observe hospital comings and goings at length and enjoy lunch. Jacky, Tony and I found a small restaurant and struck gold. Hosteria Pura fresh ingredients with a fresh approach.
