Sightseeing in Southern Shetlands Day 215 – 218 November 12 – 16th 2018
Much of our time was spent in our Crofters Cottage writing, reading, cooking, talking, dreaming – especially about coming back this way for a lengthier stay.
We did manage to drag ourselves out of the house for some sightseeing:
Firstly to the Southern heads – Sumburgh lighthouse where a walk up to the lighthouse gave us a view over Jarlshof below us with the golden light of a setting sun moving across the island beyond.
The lighthouse area itself was closed up but a number of sites are dotted across the hilltop including the huge Sumburgh Head Foghorn a warning system built in the early 1900s and recently renovated.
Because the islands are strategically placed a Radar hut was built on Sumburgh heads and used throughout World War II. Closed when we visited but still providing educational learning for students. The lighthouse itself was once on Muckle Roe island and provides a picturesque centrepoint at the heads.
From Sumburgh Heads we could see Jarlshof and this was our next stop. As we drove into the carpark it seemed the archeological site of Jarlshof was closed – we discovered we were the only visitors. Greeted by the cutest of Shetland ponies grazing in the fields around Jarlshof.
What a treasure. A site used across eras and civilisations – layer upon layer of past life. Evidence of settlements from the Bronze, Iron and Viking ages and on to more recent times. Incuding remnants of an Iron Age Broch – a circular stone tower found in Scotland.
Remains of Viking Longhouses lay alongside earlier age remnants.
From 2700 BC to 1600’s – what a history, a finding that began after a storm exposed remnants. Such a picturesque spot with the sea behind, emerald green grass highlighting the forms and wide ranging rock building structures.
On our village walk one of the people we chatted to recommended a walk up to THRS (apparently (Trans-Horizon RetroScatter!!). It was a bitterly cold walk around the hilltop with abandoned equipment and a large now abandoned fenced facility
The hillside itself and views were a camera clicking delight. Streams through moss and peat, golden light bathing the hills, a misty coast in the distance. The wild icy winds making the abandoned sites seem even more eerie – enhanced by the moaning sound out of the satellite dish.
An ad in a shop window describing the Fiddlers and Accordian Players AGM to be followed by an evening of music was appealing. Having to go out in the dark and cold less so. Arriving to a room in the Shetland Hotel filled with people and abuzz with musicians made it all worthwhile.
Seated around large tables fitted closely together made conversation with table mates easy during breaks. We chatted to a family who had been to New Zealand. “You might know my cousin” spoke the man with a quiet grin. Having often encountered the belief everyone in NZ knew each other I smiled tolerantly and said “Maybe” “Yes” he said grinning more broadly ‘Helen Clark” “You mean the ex Prime Minister” Quite surprised at again realising the tiny world we inhabit.
Further evidence came when Chris looked up the guest fiddle player – an Irish fiddle player Manus McQuire and reported he was performing at Abbotsford Convent in Melbourne later in the year.
As we drove home again congratulating ourselves on finding such great local events and making ourselves leave our warm cosy house to experience the wonderful night of music.
Our final day as we waited for the ferry departure a walk around Lerwick lead us to discover a town we had missed when we arrived. Old stone buildings bunched around a tiny harbour with boats in the marina and turrets on the skyline.
(Un)Fortunately for us we discovered the Shetland Times book shop as time ran out – next time, next time. I did get to visit one of the Op Shops and with a vast array of bright and ghastly Christmas jumpers I also voted to return.
