Day 164 to 166 September 22nd to September 23rd 2018
We are moving to Verona!
No not really, but it felt like the perfect idea as we met the gentle Verona Old Town over three days.
The delightful ambience was enhanced by sharing it with wonderful friends from Australia, now resident in the UK. Add to this a very movie-like Italian apartment and my birthday during our stay.
September 22nd
The experience began as we waited for our host to meet us. A VW beetle pulled up in the small car park – out hopped a bride and groom – the bride trailing a lengthy train and heading for the nearby bridge over the river, for photos. Cars tooting, people stopping to photograph the couple, and even the bus driver calling out as he passed.
Our apartment in Verona was spectacular. Views over the Roman Theatre and along the river from most windows. The photos for once understated the reality. Lush lounge rooms, pale lemon silk swishy curtains, a balcony with huge grey stone pillars. It was difficult to leave, but sightseeing and food tasting called.
While we had maps provided by the apartment manager, and Google maps at the ready, it was wonderful to wander in and out the narrow streets overhung by multi-storied buildings. Varied facades included colourful flowering plants and shutters of all shapes.
Chris had read about a craft beer shop which we discovered was close to a recommended bookshop. And both were close to our apartment. The bookshop was closed and would remain so for our visit, which left the beer shop. L’Artignale – a small shop, hidden in a large old building. Walls lined with a selection of craft beer and a table and stools in the middle. Time for some samples and catch-up conversation.
A wonderful interlude over local craft beer, ably helped by the proprietor, who assisted us choose excellent local beers. Followed by a wander across the river where we headed for a restaurant recommended for dinner – not hugely memorable but fun. Afterwards ambling without direction we came across a square featuring a large statue of Dante at its centre. The square was filled with wedding guests, a water festival and people eating, drinking and families having fun.
Plenty to watch as the wedding guests spread across the square. Entertaining us was a man expert at selling glowing objects that were ejected into the sky and landed randomly. Two wee girls began catching and giving them back, without appearing at all interested the man continued until one of the Dads bought the flying object – soon a squabble ensued between the two little girls so the second Dad purchased one. Then came the second layer of entertainment as both Dads vied to launch the highest flying.
Hearing music behind us we investigated and discovered a fountain playing to music with a large gathering around it. What a spectacle. Well known music, paired with a multi-playing fountain that included colours and flames. A spectacle of musical anthems that included Queen – We Will Rock You, Tschaikovsky Piano Concerto No 1, Celine Dion – My Heart Will Go On and finished with Europe – The Final Countdown. Enough to stir each heart that was present!
Video
Too much excitement – time to head home and ready ourselves for our first full day exploring Verona.
September 23rd
The next morning as we crossed the river in the search of coffee – as late risers we found Rob already on the coffee hunt and waiting patiently on the bridge for us.
We stopped to watch a Stand Up Paddle Boarder in the river below. It seemed a little futile, a lot of strength and an unclear purpose as he maintained a stable position in the rapids moving from one to another – was he trying to navigate up the river, was he trying to maintain stability?
Day Two was planned out vaguely over breakfast. A delightful cafe across the river at Bar Caffettaria Al Duomo – a Café with a hidden courtyard buzzing with people engaged in animated conversation over coffee, panini and pastries. We joined in – with lengthy, wonderful, animated conversation, multiple coffees and finally out into Verona.
The Verona Duomo was right across the square from our breakfast spot so in we went. Many of the Churches we visited in Verona had informative, efficient audio systems – a numbered map of the church with an audio guide you simply entered the numbers. This was our first experience – fantastic. The cathedral comprised the main church, a baptistry, St Helens and early Roman excavations.
In the cathedral the highlights for me were the large, overly decorated, Baroque style organs on either side. As you walked underneath the structures, suspended high up, you realised there were extensive oil paintings even on the organ underside.
The massive rose pink marble columns the length of the cathedral drew attention to the ceiling frescoes, also reflecting the colours in the marble floor and warming the light on the paintings lining the walls.
In the Baptistry a large octagonal baptismal marble font – carved from a single piece of marble, each side telling a biblical story had photographers going crazy. An unbelievable piece or art work.
In St Helena chapel the richly toned and polished carved wood of the choir seats – elaborate sides of each seat with a different intricate pattern.
Coming out from the complex we walked on and in the square of fountain-watching last night we found a historic car display. The range of cars included the cute as a button Fiat Bambino (that is what I knew it as) and a 1980s Alfa Romeo – bright yellow of course.
Alongside was a small artisan craft market – way to tempting. One woman was making jewellery particularly earrings from old watch faces. Alongside brightly coloured and decorated Frida Kahlo earrings. Walk away – Walk away.
It was at this time we decided the Museum of Modern Art would be next. With the aid of Google maps we set off. Hours later still unfound we called it quits. Not all was lost we had, had a wonderful time wandering laneways and asking a variety of people we passed for directions. We had seen an amazing array of buildings and squares. An array of shopping strips – both modern and antiques. Markets and restaurants. Finally a lively Cosplay gathering in the main square.
Finally. Enough. We four agreed and gave up the Gallery, setting our compass for home. Down winding laneways filled with shops of expensive looking antiques, jewellery, and fashion.
One last stop as we discovered Sant’Anastasia the largest church in Verona. Despite a flagging attention span, it was a towering Gothic structure inside and out. All the more impressive considering its construction had begun in the early 15th century.
Inside at either side of the entrance the holy water fonts with unusual male sculptures supporting each font. Said to represent the people who were involved in the construction of the cathedral.
Oh the floors – the marble patterned tiling of the floor reflected the cathedral space. Lush artwork on the domes and supporting structures magified the impact of the cathedral. Twelve large pink / red Marble support the interior of the cathedral making a breathtaking impression on entry.
Finally – enough religious art, church magnificence, and marble. Time for Aperol Spritz – my first in Italy – quite delicious after a long day taking in the sights of Verona and the overwhelming beauty of the churches we had stumbled across. The four of us shared a Pizza “hors d’oeuvres” and the familiar orange tinted Aperol Spritz before dinner and home.
